Moroccan High Atlas Mountains News

Woops! ANDREW S - are you there?!

2012-01-12T19:25:00.002Z

We rarely do this but somehow we have deleted an email we received from an Andrew S about a ski-touring trip.

Andrew - if you get to read this - please accept our apologies and would you mind terribly emailing us again so we can answer you!

Thanks from an embarrassed company!

Trekking in the Alps and in the High Atlas

2011-12-06T11:49:00.006Z

Both the Alps and the Moroccan High Atlas are great mountain ranges. Both provide stunning trekking and both provide great winter possibilities as well including snowshoeing.

Hilary Sharp of Trekking in the Alps and myself Des Clark of NomadicMorocco are good friends, good colleagues and both (of us) offer similar type trips in the Alps and High Atlas. So all good reason to issue a joint pdf advertising our trips for the forthcoming season in 2012.

When I say we offer similar type trips, I'm talking about small group numbers, highly personalised, professional and attentive to detail - both pre-trip preparation and on the hill in terms of safety, environmental knowledge etc etc.

In terms of knowledge, Hilary wrote the first English language guidebook to Snowshoeing in the Alps and Des wrote the first English language guidebook to Mountaineering in the High Atlas.

Have a read of our 2012 trips pdf and begin to plan your next great mountain adventure!

Winter 2012 trips

2011-11-24T18:29:00.003Z

Just click on the image for more information on what we believe are some of the best winter mountaineering experiences in the whole of the High Atlas!

Reviews of our book!

2011-11-03T17:01:00.002Z

A couple of recent reviews of our book:-

UKHillwaking.com

The Scottish Mountaineer

Eid al-Adha (6th / 7th Nov)

2011-10-14T16:47:00.002Z

The ‘big Eid’, in Morocco called Eid el-Kbir or Tafaska (Berber), commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience to God, and the fact that he was instead able to sacrifice a ram. It varies from country to country as to how it is celebrated, but in Morocco this is a time for family. Each household will sacrifice a ram or a male goat, or possibly both depending on the family’s ability to afford the animals.

Except in the most touristy areas of Marrakech, everything else will come to a standstill for the first day at least. In some towns it can take up to a week for things to return to normal. Starting a trip that is reliant on local staffing to any degree during this time will be fraught with difficulty and probable time delays. Organising a trip that runs either side of Eid el- Kbir will need careful consideration and prior discussion with any locals involved as to what your mutual expectations are.

Depending on your relationship with locals, you may be invited to join them in the sacrifice or for a meal at this time. If you are, feel privileged, and honour your hosts by joining them and relaxing with them for the day or two.

The mountains can wait! It is a fascinating time.

Route of the Week (6) Anrhemer 3892m

2011-04-08T16:36:00.004+01:00

While there are many climbing routes on this peak, most on the east face and north-east arete are difficult to access. The ascent of the peak via Tizi Tacheddirt (3172m) is a practical option, and one that opens up the possibility of a long ridge traverse (Anrhemer–Toubkal traverse).

Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons.
Time 9–10hrs (by returning the same way)
1580m, F
Tacheddirt refuge (2314m)

With Tacheddirt now accessible from Imlil by car on metalled road (outside winter), this opens up the area much more. However you choose to access it, this route can either be done in a day or broken into two days by a draughty bivvy on Tizi Tacheddirt followed by an ascent to the peak and then a descent back to Tacheddirt village. Note that there are no easy water sources on Tizi Tacheddirt if intending to bivvy there outside winter.

From Tacheddirt, follow the well-defined trail ENE to Tizi Tacheddirt (3172m, 2hrs 30mins). Take the prominent spur running up and due S without difficulty to the obvious saddle on the W ridge running down from Anrhemer. This is Tizi n-Tigourzatine (3680m, 1hr 30mins from Tizi Tacheddirt).

Follow this ridge to the W summit (3885m), with stupendous vistas of the Toubkal massif SW. From the W summit, descend to a gap which is at the top of a gully on the N face (possible route of ascent). From the gap, turn a small rock pinnacle on the N side, followed by a direct ascent up the final jagged crest to the main E summit (2hrs 30mins–3hrs from Tizi Tacheddirt; 5hrs–5hrs 30mins from Tacheddirt village).

Descend the same way, unless linking in with a traverse to Bou Iguenouane.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Review of our book

2011-03-31T03:03:00.000Z

Route of the Week (5) Ras & Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim 4083m/4088m East ridge route

2011-03-31T02:42:00.003Z

These are the second and third highest peaks in the High Atlas, and are commonly climbed by commercial groups. Ras (third highest) is the more visible one, easily seen at the head of the valley when approaching the Toubkal refuges. Its north-east face is split by a central couloir, while its south side drops to a gentle col and subsequently rises to Timesguida (= mosque), which is 5m higher.

Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons.
Time 6hrs (by returning the same way)
900m, F (winter)
Start Toubkal refuges (3200m)

From the refuge, head due S to the prominent col at the head of the valley, Tizi n-Ouagane (3730m). Keep initially W (true left) of the river, passing a band of yellowy cliffs and Amrharas n-Iglioua on your right before a flattening and the junction with the track leading SE to Tizi Ouanoums (30–45mins).

Pass through a narrow defile and potential avalanche trap from the W-facing slopes above for 30m before the final slopes rise to the pass (2hr–2hrs 30mins). Beware of cornice build-up, usually on the S-facing side.

The E ridge rises directly from the Tizi, passing the prominent finger of rock on the N side. Above, some easy but slightly exposed scrambling exits right before a small arete is crossed. Descending in winter, this offers a straightforward easy angled gully to descend NE. Beware of this arete in late spring, when warm conditions in Imlil may have dissuaded you from taking an axe, which you may regret.

Exiting off the arete, take a direct line up the 30° snow face and then veer right to a levelling off in slope angle. Take a note of this point if you have a GPS, as finding the top of the ridge if descending in cloud can be difficult – but essential for a safe line down.

Handrail the northern edge to the visible fore-summit before crossing the arete at the top of the central couloir (axe at the ready) and scramble to the small summit of Ras, with magnificent views (3hrs–3hrs 30mins).

The summit of the slightly higher Timesguida is 20mins away to the S. When returning, you can take a direct line to the top of the E ridge. In good visibility aim for the summit of Toubkal to guide you, or read your GPS reference in bad visibility. Do not be tempted to drop off this descending traverse too soon, as you will find yourself in steep terrain and on the wrong (S) side of the Tizi n-Ouagane watershed.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Route of the Week (4) Lepiney to Toubkal refuge traverse via the Clochetons Breche

2011-03-23T23:36:00.003Z

While this is a longer route than that via Tadat (Route 10), it gives fine views and an excellent vantage point of many route possibilities in the immediate area. The descent, however, can be subject to big avalanches after heavy snowfalls, particularly wet snowfalls late in the season. Do not attempt this route if there has been recent snow or avalanche history.

Map 1:50,000 Toubkal, Orientazion
Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons. Snowshoes can be useful in parts, depending on the snow conditions. Rope optional.
Time 5-6hours
940m, PD/PD+
Start Lepiney refuge (3000m)

From the Lepiney refuge, once above the waterfall, head S, keeping to the valley floor, passing the nevé permanent cone at the base of the Couloir de Neige on your right. The valley turns left and narrows, beyond which a 30m iced (in winter) section with some old in-situ protection needs to be climbed. (In descent, a rope can be useful.)

Once above this pitch, the Arhzane cwm opens up, with some great views of the Clochetons directly ahead, with the valley gradually veering right (S) to Tizi Melloul. Keeping to the valley floor initially before gaining height left, approach the base of the W face of Afella, before a diagonal left-traversing couloir takes you to the southernmost breche of the Clochetons (4hrs–4hrs 30mins).

From here a direct descent down the 30° slope of Irhzer Ikhelloun leads you directly to the Toubkal refuges more than 700m below.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

New snow

2011-03-18T20:50:00.004Z

A fair bit of snow has fallen over the past number of days in the Moroccan High Atlas down to around 1800m on south facing slopes. This will rise as temperatures increase but the snowline will remain at or around 2350m.

Beware of possible big slides with this new snow unable to bond well with the base layer.

As usual, where the slope is in question, dig a snow profile first.

Travel safe.

Route of the Week (3) Jbel Tinergwet 3551m by the SW ridge

2011-03-15T00:17:00.004Z

The most westerly 3000m high peak in the High Atlas range, it appears as an attractive pyramid peak from all perspectives. First seen to the south-east when travelling from Marrakech towards Agadir, it is particularly fine when its northern slopes are snow covered. From Taroudant, its subsidiary peak to the south-west and the main summit appear as a rocky twin-fanged peak, with Jbel Awlim (3482m) further to the right (north-east).

Out of winter season, it provides some fine lonely scrambling (apart from seeing a shepherd or two) and a satisfying mountain expedition. In winter, narrow ridges in some parts provide easy mountaineering, with some route finding and stunning views to the east and the Anti-Atlas on the southern horizon.

Two ridges are described below, and if taken together they provide a very enjoyable three-day circuit from Islane.

Map 1:50,000 series, Souq Sebt-Talmakant, Feuille NH-29-XVI-3c
Equipment Camping/bivvying for at least 1 night on the mountain, possibly up to 3 depending on route chosen. In winter, axe and crampons.
Time 2 days
990m, PD
Start Islane (1600)

Aim for the prominent cream-coloured band of rock, below the skyline ridge, visible from Islane. Leave the hamlet of Takoucht (1600m) by following the irrigation channel NNW past some houses on the right to the stream bed. Gain height by following this stream along a well-defined trail through walnut groves and past small waterfalls. Looking back, there are far-reaching views of the Souss plains below and the Anti-Atlas in the background. Reach the end of the walnut trees at 2075m, where the open forest (tagant) becomes visible up and ahead (1hr 30mins). Refill with water here.

Keeping to the right of a small outcrop, continue NNW to the beginning of the open forest, where a faint track trends left (NW then WNW), with zigzags upwards past small azibs heading for the western end of the cream band of rock.

Exit out of the forest, with first views of the summit of Tinergwet to the NE, and head WNW by following a natural line through the cream rock band before heading W into the broad Tizi Ifguig (2776m, N30 46.538 W008 53.757, 5hrs (alternative route), 4hrs (main route); also known locally as Tizi Taguergoust ‘between four’ – referring to one water source and a crossroads of four tracks). Camp. The water source is 100m away on the NW side of the pass.

From Tizi Ifguig, gain the high ground immediately to the NE (2974m). Keep NE on this ridge line passing any difficulties initially to the left (N) before gaining Tizi Moussa (2925m (local name – not marked on map), N30 47.920 W008 51.772),where the ridge line runs more W–E (3hrs).

This pass is the main escape and descent route to Islane, 3hrs due S and 1400m below. The pass also provides a suitable camp/bivvy site if a direct ascent from Islane is made instead of going via Tizi Ifguig. However, there is no water source, so snowmelt is required in winter.

From this pass, keep on the ridge line E before turning NE and passing any difficulties to the N. A shallow col gives way to the straightforward final summit ridge (3551m, N30 48.951 W008 49.781, 4–5hrs, 1hr 30mins from Tizi Moussa).

Unless continuing on to Mgount (W), return the same way to at least Tizi Moussa. The ground to the S may look attractive in places for a descent but this temptation should be resisted, as there is a lot of steep broken ground out of view.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Current snow conditions

2011-03-13T06:39:00.002Z

My friends and I will come to High Atlas for ski touring in two weeks. Can you give us some information about the current conditions? How much snow (centimeter) is there at the moment at Toubkal Hut? According to the weather forecast there should be some snow fall at the moment and the next days, is that right?
Thanks a lot for your answers.
________________________________________________________

Snow cover has been thin on the ground this season and especially for skiing - e.g the often favoured run from the Toubkal refuge down to Sidi Chamarouch has not been possible. As you say there is more snow forecast this week but this doesn't seem that it will do much more than cover some holes made by walkers!

Above the refuge there is certainly skiable terrain on N and NE facing slopes - but not as great as previous years.

NNW ridge of Akioud 4030m

2011-03-13T06:20:00.004Z

I'm planning to climb in High Atlas by the end of April. I have got some winter experience from Scotland and I have finished basic winter mountaineering course recently. Do you think that soloing Akioud as described in your guide (PD+) will be ok?
I'd like to climb all the 4000-ers in the area but i know that Moroccan guides are not the climbers really. I'd be grateful if you could give me your opinion on that.
_____________________________________________________________

The ability to climb a PD+ grade in winter depends on your competence as a mountaineer and that is something that you alone know. Also the wisdom of solo climbing any route in this area (that does not have a search and rescue facility) apart from possibly the normal south cwm route of Toubkal needs to be questioned. This route on Akioud is not nearly as frequently climbed by other parties as e.g. Toubkal or Ouanoukrim and the risk of an injury and not being "discovered" until the next day (or more) is a real possibility.

Although the route is graded "only" PD+, there is a real risk of a slide on the NW face when descending and this has potentially serious consequences (this is referred to in the route description in the book).

Route of the Week (2) Ighil Mgoun 4068m & Mgoun West 3978m

2011-03-05T22:21:00.004Z

Ighil Mgoun is the only 4000m peak outside the Toubkal region, and is a much more remote and, in winter, serious proposition. The realities of self-rescue must always be borne in mind. Once on the ridge between Mgoun West and Mgoun itself, the only escape routes are to the south, which is the opposite direction from the refuge.

Even in summer this area can create its own weather patterns, with electrical storms coming in most afternoons, so early starts from the refuge are recommended.

Map 1:100,000 Mgoun Massif, West Col
Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons; snowshoes are also very useful.
Time 2-3 days
1200+, F-
Start Tarkeddit refuge (2900m)

It is possible to continue on the ridge past Mgoun for many more kilometres, with terrain similar to the SW ridge. Realistically there is only one descent route to the N, 2km past the summit at Pt 3993m. The descent off this spur leads to the Oulilimt valley. Head W from here up to the Oumsoud pass and from there follow the trail back to the Azib Ikkis via the rocky SW spur of Igoudamen.

If you decide not to drop off at Pt 3993m, then a stupendous, technically easy ridge walk beckons. Allow for 2 nights bivvying in remote country before a return to the Bougammez valley via Tizi Ayt Imi (2905m).

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Route of the Week (1) Angour 3616m

2011-02-28T22:08:00.006Z

A climber’s mountain with many routes on its south face, but these are rarely climbed due to historical access difficulties. This may well change now that there is a metalled road all the way from Imlil to Tacheddirt. The British climber Bentley Beetham was active here in the late 1920s after his Everest expeditions earlier that decade.

Map 1:50,000 Toubkal, Orientazion
Equipment Non-winter route described. Rope, slings for those uncomfortable with exposure.
Time 8hrs (assuming no car)
990m, PD
Start Oukaimeden (2630m)

If you are self-driving, you will save considerable time and energy by driving up
the road past the ski lifts as far as is feasible depending on the snow line and other conditions. Traverse under N slopes of Angour eastwards to a stiff climb through scree to Tizi n-Itbir (3295m) ("1" in the photo above)

From the col, climb a broad gully on the right-hand side (W) of the buttress to a
gap where a ledge exits out left. Follow this ledge running across the north face with care, as there are steep slopes off to your left. The ledge exits out directly into the NE couloir. Climb this without technical difficulties over scree to the summit plateau. The summit ("2" in the photo above) is reached by a final climb tending right up a short straightforward rockwall.

Descend by the same route. Do not be tempted to descend the prominent gully that splits the two summit towers unless fully equipped.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Excerpts from Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas book

2011-02-28T21:48:00.003Z

Now that Des's book is available both as a hard copy and electronically, we plan to give you snippets of what's inside the covers by taking excerpts from the book and publishing this on our blog.

The book features 50 routes right across the range - i.e. one a week for a year! So starting this week and finishing in Spring 2012, you will be able to select your favourite routes to attempt on your visit to the High Atlas.

Approximately a quarter of the book is taken up with what we think(!) is invaluable advice and background info to help you with all the pre-trip planning. A lot of this information is already on our blog in prior articles but to save you time trawling through the entire blog, it's best to buy the book!

Snow levels

2011-02-22T17:09:00.002Z

Current snow level at 2500m on N/NW facing slope aspects and 2750 - 2950m on other slope aspects depending on the area.

Above 3000m snow cover is skiable but thin compared to other years.

2011-02-21T18:23:00.002Z

Hi i´m a guy from spain and we are a pair of students who want to go treking the jebel toubkal the next week. We need the equipament to go climbing the crampons and the ice-axe, you know where can we find a place to rent it? and one more question, how long would it take to climb it now? from imil?
thank you for your attention and all the information you gave would be so helpfull
regards
____________________________________________________

You can rent basic crampons and walking ice-axes in Imlil (Hotel Soleil or other shops) - or at the Toubkal refuges.

Usually around 5 hours trek from Imlil to the refuge and from there to the summit another 3-4 hours.

Car hire / Self-driving

2011-02-12T00:11:00.004Z

We've hired a 4x4 self drive out of Marrakesh, dropoff in Agadir. Yes there is a lot of driving but we will have had 4 days trekking. Is there a difficulty about not having a "local driver"? and is there a security issue about camping "wild"? Your reply prompts these questions. What are snow conditions like at the mo. In 2006 we waded through thigh-high snow!
____________________________________________________________

Self-driving in Morocco is fine. It's the most flexible choice and the one that will enable you to drive pretty much anywhere you want to in the country. However, driving in Morocco requires constant vigilence (as can be seen from the photo!) and distances will take far longer to drive than for similar distances on European motorways or autoroutes. Do not underestimate these factors in your overall planning.

Diesel costs are reasonable (at the time of writing just over 7 dirham / around 70 euro cents per litre) so this compensates for the long distances you may end up driving.

Make sure your are satisfied with the mechanical condition of the car before you leave, that there is both a spare tyre and the capabilities to change a wheel in the event of a puncture (!) and that any pre-existing bumps and scrapes are noted and agreed. Also make sure you have an emergency contact number to use in case the car does break down….

If driving at night, accept that you will encounter numerous unlight cyclists, donkey-drawn carts and a general attitude as regards personal safety that would been seen as "irresponsible" in Europe!

Lastly, the police are really keen on extracting fines for speeding - particularly in the 60kph zones - so beware! Getting fined is expensive and if you don't have the cash on you, your licence will be taken from you, entailing a visit to the police station the next day..... All this in French.

Camping wild is generally ok. Issues are proximity to villages / settlements. Children will come and stare at you for ages and again be vigligent for any light-fingeredness. Best to camp as far away from villages as possible and to use bottled water for drinking.

Lastly - snow conditions are light for this time of year - unless something happens you definitely won't be doing any wading!

Jebel Siroua

2011-02-11T19:25:00.003Z

We are a group of five going to Marrakesh. Our plan is straightforward for first 4 days (two) 4000mts mnts out of Neltner. I have done Toubkal before. We are then doing a 6 day tour down to Erg Chigaga, a piste trip to Zguid, on up to Taliouine, Mazwad, Jebel Siroua and onto Agadir. I have been as far as Ouarzazate in 1968 but have no desert experience. A friend thought you might have some tips for us in general and specifically re Jebel Siroua (I have the Cicerone trekking guide). Thanks.
_____________________________________________________________

Good itinerary - and a lot of driving! Presume you have organised this with a tranport operator and have your own vehicle and local driver? Assuming so, do not be afraid of telling him to drive slowly (if that is an issue)! Also presume you have / are arranging to stay in established campsites in the desert managed by local operators?

It will be cold at night in the desert so do not leave any of your mountain gear in Marrakech thinking it will be warmer than the mountains. It will be during the day but once the sun goes down.....

Taliouine is the usual starting place for treks / trips into the Siroua (pronounced "sirwa"). This town and region lives off the saffron trade. There is a 5 day circuit of the range (described in the Cicerone trekking book which you mention) including an ascent of the highest peak at 3300m. This is an airy scramble to the top but affords great views of the Toubkal region to the north. Incidentally when you are climbing Toubkal, the first views you get of the Siroua to the south are from Tizi Toubkal, 3900m.

The Siroua have great waterfalls, palm trees and bizarre rocky architecture and once you get off the piste, you will enjoy this area.

Hope this helps somewhat and have a safe trip.

Snow conditions for skiing

2011-02-02T00:17:00.002Z

how are the snow conditions right now, we are coming from italy aroun the 14th february for a ten days ski touring around toubkal. tnx
________________________________________________________________

Snow conditions at the moment are thin and ice above 3000m - so not great for skiing - although NE facing slopes have the best cover.

At the moment the freeze level is down to 2000m or so.

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Toubkal/forecasts/3500

Short ski-touring possibilities

2011-01-19T11:29:00.003Z

May I ask you for a little advice:

We will rent our own car in Marrakesh and just want to get a short ski tour. Anything is fine, as we understand that the snow situation is poor. We are experienced mountaineers holding an Austrian Mountain Guide degree. Where would you recommend to go at the moment - Ilmil or Oukaimeden or somewhere else? We just want to do a day tour and a short ski run (and know how to behave in mountains....).

A short answer would be highly appreciated. Thank you very much and please let me know if you should ever need help in Europe.
____________________________________________________________
Oukiameden is obviously easily accessible by car from Marrakech and being NE facing does hold the snow - however as you know the snow cover at the moment is thin and the summit of Ouki is not hugely high at 3273m - compared to the two Toubkal refuges which are at 3200m. Furthermore there are some lifts there and it isn't really a "touring" mountain.

You could however trek up to the Toubkal refuges and get some touring in on the big cwm SW of the 2 refuges which is also NE facing. This cwm is called Amrharas-n-Iglioua and is higher than Ouki as the top of the cwm is around 3900m
As you can see from the attached photo, the terrain is much more a "touring" area and you can find many route possibilities.

Hope this helps somewhat.

map of the 4000m peaks around the Neltner refuge

2011-01-19T10:40:00.002Z

I spent couple of last weeks trying to find a map which I could use to climb in High Atlas without result. Could you please advice me where to get the map from? I already found old Russian military map (the best one yet as it\'s got not only contours but also cliffs and rocks), but is it possible to get anything more detailed? I bought the Spanish map but only contours again. I will be very grateful for the answer!
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Hi - you've basically summarised all the options available to you in terms of mapping that are readily available - i.e. a Spanish 1:50,000 map with contours but no cliff markings and a Russian one with names in cryllic.
See our review of the Spanish map at:-
http://nomadicmorocco.blogspot.com/2008/03/new-map-of-toubkal.html

However it has to be said that you would need a 1:10,000 or 1:15,000 scale map to adequately show all the cliff markings for the area which is not available.

There is a Spanish topo guidebook for the area though detailing the climbing routes for all the peaks in the valley as well as our own one which is available from the 15th Feb.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mountaineering-Moroccan-High-Atlas-Clark/dp/1852846119/

Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot for your help....

2011-01-15T11:00:00.002Z

On 11/01/2011 09:16, steve wrote:
hello people at nomadic morocco,

thanks a lot for your helpfull, ubiased information which was necessary for our trip.

there was 20cm snow on norhtern slopes, from 2500m on, for which we needed crampons.
the other slopes were practical snow free!

grts,

steve and katrijn
_________________________________________________

This referred to a trip in the Mgoun / Tarkeddit plateau area

Springtime!

2011-01-10T19:52:00.005Z

But this is January! Nevertheless the southern western valleys of the Moroccan High Atlas mountains are green, white and pink! Green with young barley shoots and white & pink with the beautiful almond blossom.

Although we haven't been recently - this is a great time to visit Tafraoute in the Anti-Atlas with all the almond blossom.

Back to winter mountaineering.....!

Keep up the good work.....

2010-12-30T13:28:00.002Z

Hi There.
I have used your site for valuable info now and in the past and wish to thank you for all your efforts.
I am on Toubkal for around a week (for 4th time.ha!) this winter. I'm expecting to set up camp above the refuge huts around the 11th January, and the helmet cam is coming with us so I'll post the info and where to find the vids of the conditions once I reach Imlil or Marrakech!
Its the least I can do for your blog!
Keep up the good work and all the best for the New Year!
Flying in today to Marrakech!
EXCELLENT!
HAPPY NEW YEAR
__________________________________________________
Thanks for the kind words S ! Your vids would be ace! Camping sounds a bit expeditionary but at least you'll be away from the noise in the refuges!
Good climbing...

Happy Christmas from NomadicMorocco.com

2010-12-24T13:27:00.004Z

Snowline and depth update

2010-12-22T13:45:00.003Z

hi Guys,

could you guys give an update of this question by Christmas?
Allready snow covering the mountains and passes for the moment?

we arrive in Morocco on 26 of december.

thanks a lot!

So the last few days has seen a fair amount of rain in the valleys of the Moroccan High Atlas which obviously translates into snow higher up! The question is - how high? To be honest it's hard to say right now as it's still raining and the mountains are totally cloud covered - at least from where we are! The freezing level today is down to 2400m today but this is set to rise up to 3800m over the weekend.

Our best guess until we can see the mountains is fresh snow on all slope aspects down to 2350m with this new snow falling onto an existing snowbase from 2750m.

With strong W-WNW winds today (which we can definitely vouch for!) at 22 m/s at 4000m, the main risk is some windslab on E and SE facing slopes above 3400m.

Wind speed conversions:-
for KPH - multiply the m/s figure by 3.6
for MPH - multiply the m/s figure by 2.25

I don't have much experience of winter walking - can I climb Toubkal?

2010-12-11T12:18:00.003Z

Ok - well that's not going to be a one-line answer! Here are some thoughts!:

# To state the obvious - this is a 4000m peak so you will feel the altitude if you go too quick. The only safeguard if you can call it that, is that the two Toubkal refuges are around 3200m so you can sleep there without feeling major affects of AMS. Safe absolute minimum times of ascent are 3 days out and back from Marrakech - 4 days better to allow for an acclimatisation peak to be climbed.
# The fitter you are obviously the better and the easier for yourself. If you are not used to 6-7 hour days in the mountains and you are trying to climb Toubkal in 3 days or even less round trip from Marrakech then you will suffer! Be kind to yourself and get some walking in before you embark on this!
# "Winter" is really end of November to mid April +/- 2 weeks both sides. This means that during this time you will either have to carry all your own equipment and food up to the refuge or engage porters as mules will only go as far as the snowline which in mid-winter is down at Sidi Chamharouch and sometimes lower.
# At the refuge you either have to cook your own food or pay someone up at the refuge to this for you (or you can arrange with a local guide in Imlil or professional mountaineering company like ours to sort this out for you in advance). The Mouflon Toubkal refuge can provide food / meals for you if you order in advance.

All of the comments below are based on ascents in Winter!
A. Climbing Toubkal in winter generally requires wearing crampons and using a walking ice-axe. However the ascent (by either the south or north cwm routes -see point 8 below) is not technical and so you do not necessarily need prior experience using an axe or crampons if you are going with a reputable / qualified mountain guide. (We would not recommend you climbing Toubkal in winter without a winter experienced guide if you do not have prior winter walking / climbing experience).
B. The normal un-acclimatised but reasonably mountain fit individual will take around 6 hours walking from Imlil (1750m) to the refuges (around 3200m). The return leg down will take around 4 hours. These times depend on the snowline and depth of untracked snow. I remember early January '08 when it was an epic to descend due to a huge volume of new snow - right down to Imlil in fact. Also if there is any ice en-route it can make for some delicate foot placements.
C. There is 1 frequented and 1 far less frequented route from the refuges. The standard frequented South Cwm route (prominent right-hand valley in photo) and the slightly longer, steeper & much less frequented North Cwm route (prominent left-hand valley in photo). Approx 90% or more ascents are made by South Cwm route. I have lost count of the number of days I have done the North Cwm route with no other parties present yet on arriving at the summit it could be like any popular Alpine summit in terms of numbers! Local "guides" contracted in Imlil rarely if ever take the North Cwm route as it is longer, steeper and more committing in winter (that said it is still "only" Alpine grade F+ / PD-). The same can be said of virtually all the other (UK) guiding companies as they generally contract Moroccan guides to lead the trip who prefer the ease and less committing nature of the South Cwm route.
D. In terms of times of ascent/descent (round trip out and back from the refuges) for the South Cwm, it is anywhere 6-8 hours depending on fitness, peoples abilities on snow and the quality / depth of (un)tracked snow.North Cwm route up and South Cwm route down (i.e. a traverse of the peak) is usually anywhere 7-9 hours.
E. Both routes have a steep start from the refuge - the North Cwm route steepest of all. The North Cwm route initially involves a traverse across 35 degree slopes and then straight up a steep slope before gaining the relative flatness of the actual cwm. Have your axe at the ready doing this traverse to arrest any slide - although the run-out is generally not serious it can feel like a long way down to the river bed!Both routes exit onto the relevant col (South Cwm - South Col; North Cwm - North Col) before the climber is required to ascend the relevant ridge to the summit.
The North Ridge is steeper and requires some delightful easy scrambling and a true feeling of an Alpine ridge. It is generally objective free of danger and other than coping with a strong side wind it is generally a safe line.
The South Ridge can be taken direct or avoided by traversing below (western side). Be aware however that this traverse takes the climber above a cliff band - to slide here would not be good! Again depending on the snow conditions, it is often airier but safer to stay on the ridgeline proper rather than do the traverse.
F. As with all winter conditions, you should have axe / crampons (and know how to use them! - but see point A above), winter boots, a rucsac with the usual safety bits and pieces (down jacket / spare food / water / anorak etc) and be mountain aware! Turn back if in doubt about things, your breathing, the weather etc......

Can we visit you guys in Morocco?

2010-12-10T10:13:00.003Z

It's fantastic that you guys put up a FAQ on your weblog! Can we visit you guys in Morocco? Do you have a gite? A mountain shop?
_______________________________________
Thanks for the compliments! Although we're based in Morocco on the sunny south side of the mountains(!), we don't (as yet) have a public office - preferring to keep our costs down and run an internet based business from an office in our house. Apart from running commercial guided trips, we have just finished our first book on the region which will hopefully answer a lot of the questions people have when they want to do their own trip.

Whilst there are many gites in the mountains (great, good and not great!) there isn't a single mountaineering equipment shop in the country. General low quality trekky type stuff yes but no specialist mountaineering shop. The reason? - one of high import duties mainly, although with recent trade agreements between Morocco and the EU & USA this may change - slowly! As they say here in Berber "little by little"!

As there's no mountain rescue in Morocco, do I really need insurance?

2010-12-10T09:53:00.004Z

Ok - well first of all, it's not strictly true that there is zero mountain rescue in the Moroccan High Atlas. There is a private helicopter service based out of Marrakech which can fly to the Toubkal mountain refuges and pick up a casualty from there. That's about it though - a casualty injured high up on the hill will have to be moved to the refuges to stand any chance of an air-lift out.

So you would need insurance for the services of the civilian chopper from the Toubkal refuges - unless your credit card can extend to it! In addition, even though there are no formal rescue services in the entire range, there will be costs associated with your evacuation (even if it's just paying the diesel costs of the 4x4). On top of that, the hospital / private clinic will be reluctant to let you leave without being paid! Lastly if real tragedy strikes and you need an air ambulance back home to a European hospital, your credit card providers may balk at this "purchase"!

So the short answer is "yes" - never leave for the mountains (be it here here or the Alps) without first having arranged medical / rescue / repatriation insurance cover.

A question about fuel for our mountain stove

2010-12-09T19:06:00.002Z

A question about fuel for our mountain stove: We need to find "white gas" = "coleman fuel" = "Essence filtree" = "Blanche sans plomb" for our primus camping mountain stove. We need to fill the red bottle in this picture http://store.mpgear.com/images/products/display/Primus_OmniFuelOpen.jpg Where can I find this in Inezgane? In Agadir? In Marrakesh? In Ouarzazate? (we are going to spend a night in Inezgane, because we arrive in Agadir Airport in the evening)
_____________________________________________

Multi-fuel stoves are best for self-supported trips as it is impossible to buy MSR (or similar) re-sealable butane/propane mixed gas cannisters in Morocco. However we have never been able to source white gas either! So we use MSR Whisperlite's which can take unleaded petrol. If anyone out there has been able to source white gas in Morocco - tell us!

What is the current snowline altitude and depth?

2010-12-09T19:00:00.002Z

South facing slopes 3250m. North Facing 2850m. Depth at 3500m approx 20cm on sheltered aspects.

Your questions on the Moroccan High Atlas mountains answered here!

2010-12-09T18:27:00.005Z

We receive a number of questions from people wanting to do their "own thing" in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains. In the past we've answered their queries when we're less busy - and othertimes not. As a support to our forthcoming book, the first English language guidebook of its type, we've decided to answer the question type emails we (will) receive through our blog so that everyone can benefit from the answer.

All these answers will be under the FAQ's label so they are grouped together for ease of use.

So keep an eye on this link when planning your next trip to Toubkal, Mgoun, Tinergwet, Angour or any other prominent peak in the High Atlas!

After a late start, winter is coming!

2010-11-26T15:59:00.003Z

After a later than usual start to real winter weather, it's coming this weekend! Already there is rain outside the door as we type - however the centre of the oncoming depression won't strike until Monday when there is forecast to be 100km winds with snow on the summit of Ighil Mgoun 4068m in the central High Atlas mountains.
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/M-Goun/forecasts/4068

A coffee shop day with chocolate fudge cake - if only!!

Eid Mubarak!

2010-11-16T11:48:00.003Z

Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas

2010-11-02T12:57:00.004Z

You can now pre-order Des's "Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas" from Amazon.

Custom Morocco Search Engine

2010-09-02T20:10:00.002Z

Don’t you hate it when you are trying to search on the web, and you can’t find what you are looking for! When trying to get information about Morocco it is especially bad because half to three quarters of your results come from big automated websites with the same info every one else has. It can get really frustrating.

After being Morocco internet junkies for several years now, MoroccoTours.org have built a customized search engine (via Google Custom Search) to create the first (that they know of) custom English Morocco search engine.

How does it work?

They've picked the best of the best blogs/sites/twitterers about Morocco in the English language to populate their search results. That means when you search for something your results will come from someone or some source that actually knows Morocco from living here, working here or reporting specifically on Morocco. You can check out the Best of the Best list of sites below (organized by category).

It must be good because they feature this blog on their list!

Talking about targeted search, don't forget that our own website has its own internal search engine powered by Google - so don't go any further if you're looking for any searches relating to the Moroccan High Atlas mountains.

Moroccan High Atlas summits over 4000m

2010-09-02T18:04:00.003Z

Depending on what your view is of what constitutes a separate summit as opposed to a top, there are at least seven mountain summits over the 4000m mark in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains.

These are:-

1. Jebel Toubkal 4167m
2. Timesguida Ouanoukrim 4089m
3. Ras-n-Ouanoukrim 4083m
4. Irhil Mgoun 4068m
5. Afella-n-Ouanoukrim 4043m
6. Akioud 4030m
7. Biguinoussene 4007m

Biguinoussene appears at different heights on various maps - sometimes under 4000m but for the sake of completion, we regard it as 4007m which it is claimed to be on more recent maps. There are also a couple of "tops" just over 4000m on the Mgoun ridge which we are not counting in the above list but which are climbed en-route to the summit of Mgoun. Similarly for a couple of tops near Toubkal (Toubkal West & Imouzzer etc).

A number of years ago we offered a winter mountaineering trip that was billed to attempt all seven 4000ers in two weeks. Although we have since deleted the link to this webpage from our new-look website, the page remains on our server and so can be found by search engines. The url is http://www.nomadicmorocco.com/4000integrale.htm

Within the past few weeks we've had a number of separate enquiries for this trip from people that have "come across" this old webpage - and so encouraging us to revive this trip!

As far as we know, there are no other (English speaking) mountain guiding companies offering this itinerary - probably because it is too adventurous, challenging and without the certainty of 100% success!

Climbing any of these 4000m peaks in winter requires the use of axe and crampons (and sometimes snowshoes to access Mgoun). This is not a training trip and so we expect that anyone thinking of this trip will be used to wearing crampons and using an axe. Most likely they will be confident on Alpine PD routes.

In terms of fitness, people should be fit enough to cope with 2 weeks of 8 hour days in the hills bearing in mind that the weather whilst generally favourable can make life more difficult at 4000m's if it turns nasty. Some days will be shorter than this (not many) and some will be longer (again not many - hopefully!). It is also expected that people have the ability to carry all their own gear (and some shared food etc) for 5 days out of the two weeks - the remainder of the days being either porter supported or "out and back" days therefore requiring only a daypack.

The reward for this "hardship" (!) will be superb days in the High Atlas in the winter, views and summits to savour and ideally the knowledge that at the end of the trip, you will have accomplished what few others have ever done before.

If you're interested in this (type of) trip, then Contact Nomadic Morocco and tell us more of your experiences, how many there are of you in the party and when you're thinking of this trip. We'll work something out with you.

And we're back! - with a new-look website

2010-08-20T17:06:00.005Z

Well we're back in the office after a couple of months out. Ramadan is upon us at the moment so we're not going to be offering trips until afterwards (mid Sept on).

However to whet the appetite and make known our flexibility regarding be-spoke / private trip itineraries, we have updated designed a new-look website.

There is a selection of 25 recommended summits and many remote treks that we can suggest for you and your small group.

See you soon!

And we're off!

2010-06-23T21:10:00.000+01:00

After a busy and enjoyable season, we're packing our bags for the summer.

We will be looking at emails once a week or so until our return end of August.

Have a great summer and see you in the snow this coming winter!

Weather forecasts for the High Atlas Mountains

2010-02-01T20:53:00.005Z

Accessing reliable weather forecasts for the Moroccan High Atlas mountains has long been an issue for us as regular readers to our blog can testify.

Now a new mountain dedicated weather forecasting website has appeared! Connected to the weather-forecast and snow-forecast network operated by the UK company Snow-Forecast.com Ltd., the new website is suitably named mountain-forecast.com

The summary description of the website reads "A new website dedicated to mountain weather in more than 3300 (and growing) major summits for climbers and mountaineers, provided for up to 5 different elevations."

That's whats impressive about this resource - the varying elevational forecasts for each summit.

As with all weather forecasts, they say that "while this information may be indispensable in planning your ascent, please treat it critically and verify against other sources. Our weather algorithms are thoroughly tested and proven to work well for thousands of mountain ski resorts and surf breaks; however, the database of mountain locations may contain errors at this early stage.". They welcome feedback which they say "will be crucial for ironing out bugs and expanding the forecast coverage"

So looking more closely at say the summit of Mgoun which at 4068m is the 4th highest summit in the High Atlas and the highest summit outside of the Toubkal massif.
The summit forecast page is:
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/M-Goun/forecasts/4068
Looking at the forecast given for todays date it certainly seems right! As well as the summarised forecast, the page gives the temperature, wind, windchill, freezing level and precipitation.

As well as the summit altitude forecast there is one given for 1500m (Bougammez valley is at 1800m); 2500m (the refuge is at 2900m) and 3500m (Mgoun West is 3900m).

All told it seems that possibly here is the answer to all your forecast problems for your next trip to Mgoun!

Latest weather for the High Atlas mountains

2010-01-10T20:24:00.003Z

Last Thursday finally brought a combination of lower temperatures and precipitation - in other words snow on south facing slopes above 2750m. On north facing aspects and sheltered valleys the snowline is around 2350m.

The coming week brings the freezing level back up above 3000m later this week causing some snowmelt and a regression in the snowline.

Freezing level set to drop

2010-01-03T15:49:00.002Z

It's getting colder in the High Atlas Mountains....!

Current snow levels

2010-01-03T15:33:00.004Z

Following the huge rainfalls of recent weeks in the south and particularly in the Western High Atlas, we've now been able to get out into the mountains after some road and bridge repairs!

Slopes with north facing aspects have snow down to around 3000m whilst south facing slopes is much higher at around 3500m or higher in some areas. Although there was a huge rainfall the temperatures at the time were very mild which resulted in only some snow - but a complete filling of all the reservoirs!

The photo below was taken yesterday from high up the Tizi n'Test road and shows the Tazaghart plateau with villages near Ijoukak region in the foreground.

First rain and snow

2009-12-13T13:05:00.004Z

At last! The first rains (and snow on the tops) of the winter season in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains. Although not very heavy - it's a start! The forecast for the coming week is unsettled, light snow showers in the mountains and a continuing SW airflow.

Weather Forecasts

2009-10-20T12:35:00.006Z

There is no mountain specific forecast for the Moroccan High Atlas mountains. The nearest one gets to this is a snow forecast for the Oukiameden ski resort area. The stats for this forecast are compiled by the Uk company Snow Forecast.com Ltd who also operate weather-forecast.com; surf-forecast.com and tide-forecast.com

Last year on our ToubkalMountainGuides blog we issued a Toubkal specific forecast once a week which was based on data collected from the official MarocMeteo, Oukaimeden ski-resort, Weather Undergound websites and local knowledge gatherered on the ground from our guides operating in the region. They were an educated feel for what weather would be like over the stated dates and in the absence of any "proper" mountain forecasts for the Toubkal region were "better than nothing"!.

However as our forthcoming guidebook will demonstrate, there is more to the High Atlas mountains than Toubkal! So for the coming winter season we will create a direct feed from the snow forecast for "Ouki" and add our own comments to this as required. This will mean that during the days we are actually in the hills and unable to publish a blog, you the reader will at least have a forecast generated for an area that's popular and roughly in the centre of the entire range.

In relation to snow forecasts it has to be said that neither us or snow-forecast.com make any attempt to state the avalanche risk or comment on the stability of the snowpack.

Ramadan and trekking

2009-08-22T11:40:00.004Z

Ramadan started here in Morocco last night and will continue until in or around the 19th / 20th September when the new moon will be sighted, signalling the end. The reason as to the uncertainty of the exact finishing date is because Morocco is one of the last countries in the world that relies on an actual sighting rather than a moon calendar. And if it isn't seen, then the fast goes one for another day.
The celebration at the end of Ramadan is called Eid el-Fitr, and is the second biggest event of the Islamic calendar (after Eid el-Kbir). Eid el-Fitr lasts three days and shops, banks and offices are closed.

We're often asked about the effects of Ramadan in the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains and whether it is wise to go trekking / climbing at this time. So here are some thoughts:-

If you are trekking with a large commercially organised party, then the effects of Ramadan on your trip will probably be very little. You may be aware of the local staff getting up early (before sunrise) to eat and drink and then all gathering together with other Moroccans at sunset (presently around 7 pm) to drink askif or harira (soup) and eat dates and some bread. Aside from that you'll observe them not eating, drinking or smoking during the day.
Again if you're with a commercial group, your in-country travel will be pre-organised and minibuses will be there for you at the appointed time.

Moving onto DIY trekking - this will be a different experience. There are a number of factors to consider:-
a) are you trekking long routes that will exhaust local staff unable to drink during the day?
b) who is going to prepare your lunch?
c) are you prepared to be flexible as regards transport availability?
d) how much interaction do you anticipate having with locals in the mountains? Can you adjust to their timescale?
e) are you prepared to travel in public transport without drinking or smoking?
f) if you're hiring a car and driving around the country, be prepared for all cafes / restaurants in non-tourist areas to be closed.

Some other pointers in random order:-

Regardless of whether you are trekking with commercial group or doing it yourself, you should out of respect for Moroccans, avoid eating, smoking or drinking in public during the day.

Be aware of banks and the like opening an hour later in the morning and closing mid-afternoon.

Alcohol is not available in the supermarkets and off-licences are closed from three days before Ramadan until three days after the Eid (celebrations at the end of Ramadan). It is available to foreigners in licensed restaurants, but sometimes the bar or restaurant might run out of some drinks.

The dJemma-el-Fna in Marrakech really comes alive after sundown and everyone will be out and about eating and enjoying themselves.

It will be next to impossible to get a taxi after 5 pm or thereabouts until after f'tour (the breaking of the fast meal at sundown) as everyone will be rushing to get home.

The sticky cakes on sale such as shpekia should not be missed!

During f'tour unless you are eating in a cafe / restaurant / dJemma-el-Fna, it is best not to be walking about generally in the streets at this time. Anyone else walking around when they should be home eating are probably up to no good and as generally there is always someone watching what everyone else is doing (and thereby self-policing), during f'tour there will be no-one about doing this! For this reason it's best not to let your kids go out of your sight during this time if you are travelling with children.

In summary, if you are prepared to adapt, be really sensitive to local culture (and particularly in the conservative countryside) and be flexible as regards things like transport times, then this can be a very rewarding time to visit.
Whilst large commercially driven companies do offer trips at this time, we at NomadicMorocco.com and ToubkalMountainGuides.com don't. One reason is that all our guides are out of the country in September anyway! More seriously though, at this time of year the weather is still hot and we generally don't offer (m)any trips until mid September. The main reason however is that we really feel for the local staff having to walk all day in the mountains without being able to drink as they run a much greater health risk of severe dehydration and depletion of body salts etc than they would otherwise.

September is a great month for harvesting walnuts however. More on this later....

Guidebook research trips and routes

2009-05-14T10:41:00.005Z

We have a number of trips / routes we wish to do for our forthcoming guidebook on Mountaineering in the High Atlas.

The majority of these routes will be in winter (conditions) and so whilst we will be organising the logistics etc, these research trips are not in any way a guided trip. Rather they should be treated as self-supported mountaineering trips and as such any person that wishes to accompany us on these trips should be a proficient mountaineer in their own right.

To reflect that these trips are not guided per se but nevertheless all the planning, logistics, transport, food and accommodation will be organised and covered by us, the daily rate we would see as appropriate for these trips would be € 50 per person / per day.

The trip length can be as little as 2 days and up to a week or more and will cover the entire spread of the High Atlas range.

If you would like to join us on this basis, then please follow this link and give us a brief resume of your mountaineering experience; the time of year you are available / would like to join us; how many days you are available for; anything else that you think may be important!

Lammergeier alive and well in Oukaimeden

2009-05-13T12:17:00.008Z

We've written about this fabulous bird before in various blogs. So it is great to receive an email from a Spanish ornithologist who spotted them recently in the ski resort area of Oukaimeden in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains - not a million miles away from the Toubkal massif.

Some great photos on Teo's blog (like the one above!)

Take a look on this link.

Thanks Teo for your photos and email.

Refuge below Mgoun 4068m

2009-05-13T10:55:00.009Z

The mountain refuge situated on the Tessaout plateau on the south side of the Tarkeddit ridge is a good base for tackling the north side of Mgoun 4068m, the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas outside of the Toubkal massif. This area which is prone to large snowfalls in the winter, creates its own weather patterns regardless of the time of year and temperatures others are experiencing in different areas of the country.

I well remember the time one August when I was experiencing daily (cold!) hail storms that were producing impressive flash floods in the Mgoun region whilst my family on the southern side of the mountains were wishing they owned a swimming pool such was the heat!

The Terkeddit Refuge is privately owned by a Marrakech based company and has been built beside the sight of an old refuge which is now only evidenced by some low stone broken down walls. Whilst the new (5 years or so) refuge is comfy, it is bearing the brunt of the cold and damp climate and its flat roof has allowed significant damp discolouration and peeling of paint etc on most of the internal ceilings. It's still better than a tent though!

The warden of the refuge has now been issued with a Thuraya satellite phone which unless you have your own satellite phone with you (we always carry one to this region) is the only communication to the outside world. Technically therefore it is possible to phone the refuge direct - the company's website suggests between the hours of 9-10 in the morning and 4-5 in the afternoon (local time).
The satellite number is:- 00 88 216 51073576 and again as per the company's website it is "Il est gardé toute l’année"

All that by way of introduction to a recent story we received by email from an independent mountaineer:-

We had a great trip, v intense for just 6 days ; found a great gites in Agouti recommended by a mountain guide we met on the bus from Marrakesh.

It took us about 11 hrs to get the hut, just as it was falling dark , with a howling wind, only to find out that there was no warden there and the doors firmly locked (despite assurances we'd been given at the gite, and the huts web site!). This was a disappointment I can tell you. My partner was all for breaking the door down but we did have a small tent and stove etc and were fairly comfortable apart from a bit of a battering from the wind.

Next day we felt a bit alone and exposed and still had the pass to get back over so instead of tackling MGoun we hightailed it out. Once down in the Arous valley we asked a Berber farmer to give us a roof over our head for the night and were treated like visiting royalty, quite an experience: lovely people admiring our expensive kit, slept over the goat herd in the barn, great bread , argan oil ; mint tea, lamb tagine and scrambled eggs for breakfast! Next day wandered back to Agouti, and flagged a taxi down for a wild ride back to Azilal.

Feel free to give the hut people feedback!

So there you have it - make sure (somehow!) that the guardian is at the refuge before you head off.

Or bring a tent!.....

John Evans

2009-05-09T21:08:00.006Z

John David Evans, an experienced mountain rescue team member died tragically in a fall whilst climbing in Snowdonia, North Wales. The accident took place 2 weeks ago at Clogwyn Y Grochan in the Llanberis Pass.

John aged 54, was a member of the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Team. He was out enjoying a social climb with his partner Lynne when the accident happened. They had just climbed the route Nea, when John fell a considerable distance whilst descending a gully. Fellow rescue team members rushed to his aid but were unable to save his life. North Wales police are currently working with the Mountain Rescue Team to establish the exact cause of the accident.

John lived in Capel Curig and was an accomplished and experienced climber, having spent time as a mountain guide in Alaska as well as being a knowledgeable instructor in technical rescue rope work.

He was largely responsible for encouraging the writer, Des Clark to gain the Wilderness EMT award last year in Glenmore Lodge, Scotland.

More information and photos can be seen on the following blog post:-

2009 Mountaineering Season: John Evans

Building styles in Morocco

2009-03-05T12:31:00.003Z

Traditional style village house in the Western High Atlas

High winds on Tinergwet

2009-03-05T12:05:00.003Z

No it's not a photo of the Himalaya! Jebel Tinergwet west ridge at over 3000m (north of Taroudant in the Moroccan Western High Atlas) is just one of the peaks that is being subjected to strong N/NW winds at the moment. The weather is to remain unsettled, cloudy and light snow falls up high and fresh to strong N winds until the weekend.....

Coffee shop (if only!) weather indeed.

Information on Morocco

2009-02-22T11:40:00.003Z

The difficulty with the internet now is that there is so much information "out there" that is possible to spend hours trawling through various websites to find exactly what you're looking for!

Morocco for example. Well stop looking! If it's mountains or trekking related our 2 websites should suffice:-

ToubkalMountainGuides.com (for Toubkal area obviously) and NomadicMorocco.com (for the Western High Atlas and Mgoun regions).

If it's culture, news, information, observations, articles, Fes, Fes festivals, U2 (our old class mates - yes it is true - look at the "U2 by U2" book to see a photo of Des Clark standing beside David Evans, aka The Edge!) - whatever you need to know of Morocco on the internet can be pretty much found on the Riad Zany blog "The View from Fez".

Check it out, learn lots and save yourself grief and time!

North Atlantic oscillation and the Moroccan High Atlas

2009-02-18T08:57:00.005Z

A recent client of ours on a ToubkalMountainGuides trip where we endured fresh deep snow (yes we are talking about the Moroccan High Atlas!), reminded us of the North Atlantic oscillation. Of course!

So here's the Wikipedia link for some light reading. Certainly it would appear from the winter of 2008/9 that the NAO index is low. Westerlies are suppressed and cold winters and storms track southerly toward the Mediterranean Sea. This brings increased storm activity and rainfall to southern Europe and North Africa.

Oh yes!

Have we turned a corner?

2009-02-11T15:30:00.005Z

After last week's (record) rainfall in Morocco and snowfall in the High Atlas mountains including Mgoun, Tinergwet and Toubkal, there is at last sunshine and warmer temperatures!

Taroudant mid-day to-day recorded 36 degrees with some 12 degrees lower in the shade. The forecast is for predominantly settled weather although some clouds Monday may bring some light rain to places.

Last weeks snow fell as low as 1600m on south facing aspects and 1200m on the northside. Temperatures this week though have meant a lot of this lower snow has melted and the snowlines have receded on both sides by around 800m.

Olive trees and snowy mountains

2009-01-18T20:06:00.003Z

The last few days have brought fresh snow to the High Atlas mountains - with even some snow on the lower south facing slopes!

The photo taken this afternoon shows the highest most western summits of the Moroccan High Atlas - (left) Jebel Tinergwet 3551m and (right) Awlim 3482m as seen from Taroudant in the Souss valley.

The forecast for the week is clear, mainly settled weather with temperatures rising at the end of the week.

Enjoy the High Atlas with NomadicMorocco!

Current weather / snow for the High Atlas

2009-01-12T11:03:00.002Z

Warmer southerly winds on the 30th and 31st December which raised the snowline to around 2700m on N & NE facing slopes released about half a metre of new snow above 3250m. This has now stabilised and the current spell of cold northerly winds and blue skies seems set to continue until the end of the week.

Wrap up well....!

The official Maroc Meteo daily bulletin in French is available on this link.

More snow forecast for the High Atlas

2008-12-27T20:41:00.003Z

As we write this, it is raining heavily outside in our patio!.... which means snow up high on Toubkal, Mgoun and other High Atlas peaks! Given the current temps at the moment the snow is likely to be falling above 2500m on all slope aspects.

The forecast for the coming week is mixed - some sun (not much!) with heavy snow showers Tuesday evening / night with wind direction SSW.

The daily Moroccan meteo (in French) is available on-line at http://www.marocmeteo.ma/meteo/bulletin.asp

Stay safe....

2009 winter trips & prices - Christmas offer!

2008-12-15T18:17:00.009Z

Hello everyone. Maybe some of you have been keeping an eye out on weather forecasts for the Moroccan High Atlas, Toubkal or Mgoun areas?! Well in case you missed out - there is certainly ample snow around already for our winter Toubkal ascents and snowshoeing trips in the Mgoun region with some record falls in early November.

The current economic woes and falling level in the GBP rate against the Euro (and also the Moroccan dirham) have made things difficult for our UK clients and whilst our trips are (we believe!) costed competitively against other operators given our low client to guide ratio and that we do not out-source our trips to anyone else, often it seems that it is the bottom line figure that is the decider rather than what services etc are offered before and during a particular trip.

So to help those in the GBP sterling zone, we are prepared to discount our prices by €40 per trip for all new individual bookings and €100 per trip for all joint bookings (2 persons) received by the end of the Christmas period (i.e. midnight on the 5th January 2009).
This offer applies purely to people resident in the UK and is valid from now on the trips specified below for which there are (at the time of writing) 2 or more places available on the trip in question. To get an up-to-date availability status, go to our TMG blog entry which is updated daily.

Jan 26 - 30 Toubkal Winter ascent IFNI
Feb 16 - 20 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY
March 14 - 22 Mgoun 4068m Winter ascent
March 15 - 22 Winter / Expedition course
April 6 - 9 Toubkal Winter ascent IMLIL
April 13 - 17 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY

Details of the Toubkal trips are available on this pdf link.
Details of the Mgoun Winter ascent trip is available on this pdf link.
Details of the Winter / Exped training course is available on this pdf link.

Stay safe in the mountains over the holiday period wherever you go. Remember to avail of weather and avalanche information services where they exist and to heed them. Enjoy!

Happy Christmas!

International Mountain Day

2008-12-11T15:56:00.004Z

Today is International Mountain Day as designated by the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the UN. This year the theme is of food security in mountains.

It is an apt occasion to reflect on how hard it is for mountain people to consistently get adequate and nutritious food to lead healthy and active lives. Priorities for improving food security in mountains include promoting and expanding traditional mountain crops; safeguarding indigenous land use practices; improving breeding programmes of mountain-adapted livestock; better market access; and mountain-specific public policy, developed with the participation of mountain people.

More specific information can be had at http://www.fao.org/mnts/intl_mountain_day_en.asp

Through the work of the AMAN Trust, we at NomadicMorocco are trying to play some small part in the sustainabiity of remote Berber communities far away from the touristic scenes of Imlil, Toubkal, Mgoun etc.

Large image map of the Moroccan High Atlas

2008-12-10T09:18:00.007Z

We're often asked where such and such a peak is relative to Toubkal - where is the only other 4000m peak Ighil Mgoun for example? Are there any mountains near Taroudant?

Well, in a couple of CAF refuges, there exists a picture montage which is an excellent visual portrayal of the entire Moroccan High Atlas range. Unfortunately it is impossible to get hold of nowadays and so at the risk of breaching copyright, I took a number of photos of the montage a while back, did some digital editing of my own and ended up with a large file (3mb and 3868x532 pixels)!

So if you would like to get a feel for the entire High Atlas and start dreaming of your next mountain exploration, then just follow this link through to where we have the image stored on our own server.

If anyone knows per-chance where it is possible (and we have searched!) to find a copy of this montage to buy, let us know please!

Mountain Rescue in the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains

2008-12-01T09:43:00.007Z

Further to our previous blogs on this subject ("Planning your trip to the Moroccan High Atlas" 230408 and "Is insurance really necessary for trekking in the High Altas mountains?" 021008), a few of us (western ex-pat mountain guides resident in Morocco) attended a "full-on" intensive 6 day Wildeness Emergency Medical Technicians course in Scotland's National Outdoor centre Glenmore Lodge, Scotland at the beginnning of November.

The next stage in the plan to have some sort of medical cover in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains is to attract funding to purchase mountain stretchers and full medical kits to be stationed at the various refuges and key posts in the mountains - from Mgoun to Toubkal! Thereafter to train local "guides" and refuge personnell into basic casualty care and trauma treatment including the transportation of casualties out to a suitable roadhead for onward evacuation to a hospital etc.

Anyone interested in this whole area and possibly partnering with us, please contact us for more info.

Mgoun winter ascent - change of dates

2008-11-19T11:20:00.006Z

We've had to change the dates for our proposed Winter Ascent trip of Irhil Mgoun in the Central High Atlas of Morocco from the first week of March to the 14-22 March inclusive. This enables us to tie in with our Winter Mountaineering and Exped training course also over in the Mgoun region.

Irhil (or Ighil) Mgoun at 4068m is the 4th highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas and winter ascents are for experienced winter walkers / mountaineers who are looking to expand their horizons.

There is availability on both trips / courses.

Petzl Myo headlamps

2008-10-24T14:28:00.003Z

Whether it’s for late night reading in a Berber village house in the High Atlas mountains or a pre-dawn start on Toubkal, headtorches are used the world over.

One of the most common names in headtorches is Petzl. They have just issued a press release on their Myo model.

Due to advances in the performance characteristics of AA/LR6 rechargeable batteries (especially their higher output during discharge), they can in certain cases of intensive use, cause quality and safety problems with MYO-series headlamps. When the headlamp is used with AA/LR6 rechargeable batteries, if a short-circuit appears in the cable connecting the battery case to the lamp, the cable can spark, melt, or catch fire. This poses a burn hazard to the user.
Click here to read more....

Walnuts in the High Atlas mountains

2008-10-20T14:53:00.003Z

We've written about walnuts before in a previous blog. Every year is different and unfortunately for this year, it seems the walnut harvest was not hectic - certainly in the Western part of the Moroccan High Atlas mountains.
Strong winds and frost damage last April when the blooms were flowering, caused enough damage to reduce the harvest this year to about half of last years crop - which will mean (like most other foodstuffs) a price increase this year for Moroccan walnuts.....

Don't take everything at face value!

2008-10-12T13:35:00.004Z

Our friends who live in our neighbouring High Atlas mountain villages, reckon this is going to be a "proper" winter! Already we've had some good rain (2 weeks ago) and more fell on Friday and yesterday resulting in snow above 2600m on Toubkal and other High Atlas peaks.

We were guiding on Toubkal on Friday (see photos) and our TMG blog article posted today.

So why the blog title "Don't take everything at face value!"? Well these photos are ours unlike one shown on a blog posted today by a Scottish outfit - Morocco Tour and Trek. The photo they have on their blog is actually one of ours from a blog we posted back last November!

At least they're using photos from a professional mountain guiding company....

Is insurance really necessary for trekking in the High Altas mountains?

2008-10-02T10:33:00.003Z

First of all everyone coming to the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains should realise that there are no formal mountain rescue services in the country. We've written about this before in earlier blogs. Any person that suffers an injury in the mountains that requires a rescue and evacuation to a hospital, will have a long ordeal getting mule transport (if the injury allows that) or a stretcher carry (if one is nearby!) down to where a 4x4 vehicle can pick them up and transport them to a hospital. Unfortunately even though the numbers of trekkers and climbers are increasing - particularly in the Imlil / Toubkal & Ait Bougmez / Mgoun regions, the Moroccan authorities have not seen fit to grant commercial rescue licenses, as that would require granting air / helicopter permits which they are often loath to grant ("security concerns").

So! Given all of that, is insurance really necessary? Well even though there are no formal rescue services, there will be costs associated with your evacuation (even if it's just paying the diesel costs of the 4x4)! On top of that, the hospital / private clinic will be reluctant to let you leave without being paid! Lastly if real tragedy strikes and you need an air ambulance back home to a European / US hospital, your credit card providers may balk at this "purchase"!

So the short answer is "yes" - never leave for the mountains (here, the Alps or any of the Greater Ranges) without first having arranged medical / rescue / repatriation insurance cover.

Buying such cover has now been made easier as TMG & NM have arranged a link with VentureGuard for clients and non-clients to purchase this on-line. The cover is excellent, the premiums are competitive and mountaineering is not excluded like it is with a lot of travel insurance providers! Depending on the level of cover you are looking for (e.g. whether you require baggage insurance or not) premiums start at GBP 64 for a 5 day trip. This gives you £5M medical; £15K search/rescue; cancellation, personal liability, legal expenses..... More details on the benefits here.

Seasons & Festivals

2008-09-30T10:15:00.004Z

Tomorrow marks the end of the fasting month of Ramadan here in Morocco. For life in the Moroccan High Atlas villages, it will be a day of spending time with your family, before embarking on the start of the walnut harvest. Last year was a good year for walnuts and early indications are that this year will be good as well.

Lower down the olives are being harvested and brought to the olive press. Last year was a poor year resulting in high olive oil prices. This year looks to be better. Here's hoping....

In the meantime, Eid Mubarak !

Weather forecasts in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains

2008-09-27T11:03:00.004Z

This is the time of year that the weather patterns change from summer thunderstorms to the first winter snows. Anytime between now and end of October is suspect. Unfortunately obtaining forecasts for the High Atlas mountains is not as straightforward as ringing up Chamonix Meteo!

You have to keep an eye out above for changing cloud patterns, wind speed and direction and humidity levels. Generally (and I emphasise that word), weather fronts do not come in with the same speed as they do in e.g . west coast Scotland or Ireland but are more gradual. However as with all things, the best is the find out as much as possible in advance, and if in doubt - descend!

The Moroccan Meteo service is available on-line here:
http://www.marocmeteo.ma/meteo/bulletin.asp

We will be posting any major weather news items on this blog throughout the winter season so stay tuned....

How easy is it to climb Toubkal?

2008-09-12T21:03:00.002Z

How easy is it to climb Jebel Toubkal 4167m - the highest mountain in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains?

Find out more to this commonly asked question on our new blog!

Current trip availability for Toubkal Mountain Guides

2008-09-06T12:25:00.011Z

Here is a up-to-date summary regarding the availability for future Toubkal Mountain Guides scheduled trips between now and next Easter.

Nov 24 - 28 Toubkal Winter ascent IFNI (1 place left)

Dec 29 - Jan 2 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY (booked out)

Dec 30 - Jan 2 Toubkal Winter ascent IMLIL (6 places left but not yet guaranteed to run until we have minimum 2 bookings)

Dec 30 - Jan 3 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY (6 places left but not yet guaranteed to run until we have minimum 2 bookings)

Jan 26 - 30 Toubkal Winter ascent IFNI (3 places left)

Feb 16 - 20 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY (5 places left)

March 9 - 13 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY (booked out)

March 15 - 21 Winter Mountaineering Course (availability)

April 6 - 9 Toubkal Winter ascent IMLIL (6 places left - guaranteed to run)

April 13 - 17 Toubkal Winter ascent LEPINEY (6 places left - guaranteed to run)

A useful link is our PDF brochure for our Winter Toubkal ascents

Daylight savings time

2008-08-27T19:30:00.005+01:00

Maybe you didn't miss us but we certainly missed the Moroccan sunshine having spent 3 weeks in Ireland and getting a glimpse of the sun for a total of 4 hours one evening! Having said that, sunset times on the Irish west coast considerably lengthen the daylight hours during the "summer" which prompted a conversation about Moroccan daylight savings and how it would interfere with the forthcoming month of Ramadan. (We wrote about this in a previous blog)

Well maybe someone in the Moroccan government overheard us as no sooner have we got back than we read the incredible news that Morocco was turning back the clock for Ramadan. It appears that when the government decided to launch daylight saving time in June, it failed to consider the hours of prayers, Iftar, Sohour, work and school during the holy month of Ramadan!!

The lack of foresight by the authorities is amazing. Ramifications for travellers that have already booked flights into / out of Morocco during the month of September are that they should expect to receive an email soon from their airline advising them of the change in flight schedules by plus/minus one hour as appropriate.

More on this as it develops....

Over but not out!

2008-05-12T11:50:00.005Z

The snow is melting, the summer trekking crowds are beginning and so as another winter / spring season finishes up for ToubkalMountainGuides.Com & NomadicMorocco.Com, we're taking this opportunity to sign off for a while. Rest assured however that if any juicy bits of news come along then the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains blog will come alive again!

To entice you all for next Autumn / Winter season here are some links to browse

Toubkal Winter Ascents PDF dossier

High level Toubkal trek & ascent (October 26 - Nov 1)

Mgoun Winter Ascents PDF dossier

Start dreaming.....!

Daylight Savings Time (re) introduced for Morocco

2008-05-09T22:24:00.003Z

Morocco is to save energy by adjusting its clock during summer so it will be one hour ahead of GMT between 1 June and 27 September, according to Communication Minister and Government Spokesman, Khalid Naciri.

"This measure will allow (us) to save energy and to align the time zone with Mor occo’s regional and international partners including the EU countries," the Moroccan News Agency (MAP) quoted Naciri as saying Thursday.
In the 1980s, Morocco used to adjust its clock during the summer time, but later cancelled the process.

So later times getting out of bed for Toubkal summit!

North-East of Mgoun

2008-05-09T20:46:00.003Z

You might think Mgoun is a long way away from Marrakech and hard to get to! Well the area currently in vogue for the worlds' top rock-climbers is a league apart.

Zaouia Ahansal is home to some incredible rock walls - Taghia.

This recently published article on the area investigates an issue close to all our hearts here at TMG & NM - that of sensitively introducing mountain based tourism to remote High Atlas village areas.

It seems that climbing some of these routes is nearly as hard as achieving a sensitively sustainable influx of western climbers to an area such as this.

Look at how Imlil has developed!

Vulture spotting

2008-05-07T11:00:00.000Z

Anyone who has trekked up to the Toubkal refuges will have noticed the big sign on the track just across the river from Aremd displaying the protected status of this old-world vulture - the Lammergeier or Gypaetus Barbatus. We wrote about this in a previous blog last December.

Despite many many days in the region over the last few months, I haven't sighted this huge bird.

Has anyone?......

Some more altitude readings for Toubkal area

2008-05-06T20:47:00.004Z

Our blog of the 5th February last regarding the altitude height of the Toubkal refuges has generated some feedback!

So for the record, here are some more altitude readings:-

8 (out of a possible maximum of 12) full strength satellite reads on my Garmin eTrex GPS on the 3rd May gave me a reading of 3163m for the (new) Mouflon refuge below Toubkal.

6 excellent satellite reads on the same GPS on the 4th May gave me 3159m for the Mouflon refuge.

9 full strength satellite reads on the GPS on the same day (4th May) gave me 4172m for the summit of Toubkal - i.e. 5 metres over the generally accepted "true" altitude of 4167m

So if we can say an average reading of the Mouflon reading as 3161m plus/minus 5m.

All of which tallies with previous altitude readings from my (sometimes possibly dodgy) watch altimeter recorded in our February blog!

So what height is the CAF Neltner?.........

Brahim

2008-04-24T11:31:00.011Z

Brahim, 11, from a remote mountain village can see as far as his feet. At least that's something as it means he doesn't stumble too often when he’s walking along the narrow mountain tracks near his home.
His father travels regularly to the main town down in the plains to get some money for the family - he's the crippled beggar that we pass by every other day on our way to do our own important jobs.
His mother works in the terraced fields around their village, gathers firewood, makes bread and scrapes bits & pieces of food together to feed hungry mouths. Money on health-care isn’t even at the bottom of the list - it just doesn't feature.

Amazingly, despite everything, Brahim was still keen to give the small village pre-fab school perched on the hillside, a bash. Called lots of unkind names by those clever children in the class who know it all, he walked up to the blackboard every day to see what the teacher had written before returning to his desk unable to see the sniggering faces around him. That was before someone finally called it a day for him. His routine since then has centred around Friday mid-day prayers and helping the imam in mosque duties. His reward is a couple of dirham and a promise that he will be rewarded in paradise.

Brahim though visited the main town the other day with a few of his friends. Travelling in the back of an open truck for an hour and a half along a mountain road that has seen a couple of recent accidents, a fatality and a dozen others badly injured in the last while, he arrived dusty but relieved that the journey had been accident free.

The purpose of the boys visit to the town was to go to the local health clinic to get their eyes tested. Rudimentary facilities compared to “specsavers” or the like, they emerged nonetheless after an hour or so, each clutching a piece of paper with some scribbled figures on them. The owner of a glasses shop would later make out Brahim's to be minus 8 on average for both eyes.

Even though the distance between town and village is less than 50km as the kestrel flies, the boys had made the journey to town only a few times before and hearing car horns and avoiding collisions with cyclists were still all quite new experiences to talk about later. Just communicating with the eye doctor confirmed to Brahim & his friends, as if they needed it, that their mountain village was a different world to his town - they spoke a different language to him and only but for the headman of the village being with them who spoke both languages and could act as interpreter, they would probably have come away empty handed.

Brahim & his friends are now back home up in the mountains after having eaten a good tajine in town before they left. They're now waiting for someone to bring their newly made glasses up to them next week - inshallah.

The only thing Brahim doesn't want, now that he'll soon have glasses, is to see those sniggering faces of the know-it-alls in the classroom. That he'll have to deal with some other way.

Eye-testing, glasses, tajine & transport provided with help from the Aman Trust.

Planning your trip to the Moroccan High Atlas

2008-04-23T08:37:00.004Z

There is no formalised mountain rescue service in the Moroccan High Atlas and the reality is that there is virtually no chance of getting a helicopter rescue unless you have some "inside" contacts!
Evacuation will have to be overland (by mule if the casualty is able for that or worse still a makeshift stretcher) to the nearest road and from there to a hospital / clinic.

The following phone numbers may be of some assistance in planning your trip in advance and/or contacting in the event of emergency:-

Toubkal / Imlil area
067 260058 Imlil Gendarmerie
070 109655 CAF Neltner (Toubkal) refuge
061 695463 CAF Neltner (Toubkal) refuge
067 852754 Guardian for the CAF Lepiney (Tazaghart) refuge
024 319036 CAF Oukaimeden
063 763713 Moufflon (Toubkal) new independently owned refuge
063 763109 Moufflon (Toubkal) refuge

Mgoun / Bougammez area
024 436369 Tarkeddit refuge

If dialing from a non-Moroccan mobile, you may need to dial 00 212 and drop the 0 in the local codes. Remember however that mobile coverage (even in the Toubkal area) is scant and on the Tarkeddit plateau (Mgoun area) is non-existent. Best of all is a satellite phone (e.g. Thuraya).

If you are planning on a mountain based trip in Morocco, it would be a good idea to locate the nearest private clinic (hospital) to you before you leave for the hills in case you need to go there with a casualty rather than be looking for one under pressure.....

Lastly for weather forecasts, I'm sure you all have your favourite on-line weather sites. Again there is no specific weather forecast service for the High Atlas. Best is to look at the forecasts for Marrakech, Agadir and Ouarzazate and hazard an educated guess as to conditions up at 4000m's!
The Moroccan meteo is updated daily and can be read from this link.

Alternatively keep an eye on this blog!

Spring is in the air!

2008-04-13T13:05:00.005Z

Winter is almost gone! Green fields are burgeoning, poppies blooming and walnut trees leafing all over the valleys in the Moroccan High Atlas range. There is still some snow on the higher north facing slopes and gullies giving a very "alpiny" feel to the place. It's a beautiful time of the year to vist the Toubkal and Mgoun areas - and one of our favourites!

It's not all rosy though - at this time of the year, southern and south-eastern winds whip up mid-day and afternoon bringing dust storms to the southern towns and valleys. It didn't rain much (for the second year running) on the southern side of the mountains and more hardship for the rural villages beckons with not enough food or water for the animals.

More on these realities of living in the mountains for the Berbers in the coming weeks......

New map of Toubkal

2008-03-13T09:02:00.007Z

A new map has recently been produced for the Toubkal area (with Marrakech on the reverse).

Published by a Spanish company, Orientazion, and distributed by MapIberia, this is a plastic water-resistant trekking map of the Toubkal area and surroundings and also comes with a plan of Marrakech on the reverse!

The 1:50,000 scale map is approximately centred on the village of Imlil, about 8km north of Toubkal, and covers an area measuring 32km E-W by 22km N-S. Topographic detail includes contours at 20m intervals, hill-shading, woodland and scrub areas, springs, rivers and dry riverbeds. Road detail includes tracks and footpaths and ski-lifts at Oukaimeden are also shown. Isolated buildings are marked along with refuges and religious buildings. A 1km UTM grid (map datum WGS84) is drawn over the map and margin ticks are at 1’ intervals.

On the reverse is a clear plan of Marrakech at approximately 1:8,700. Centered around Bab nKob, it covers the Medina district and extends westwards to the main railway station, northwards to the Souk el Khemis, eastwards to Bab Aylen and southwards to the northern fringes of the Agdal gardens.
Colours highlight main sites of interest, public buildings, shopping areas/markets and pedestrian zones. One-way streets are marked and symbols show a range of useful features eg. hotels, taxi ranks, car parks, information offices, petrol stations, public water fountains, places of worship, police stations, hospitals etc.

SO! - getting back to the Toubkal map itself - what it's like really?!
Well, first impressions are of a clear, uncluttered map with the contour lines at 20m intervals actually visible (unlike older maps on sale). Ridge lines are shaded on the S & SE aspects and forested / tree covered slopes covered with various shades of green.

Without picking too many holes in it initially, a lot of placenames are mis-spelt. E.g. Imlil is Imelil, Aroumd is Around, Neltner is Nelter, whilst the more difficult to spell like Ouanoukrim is perfect!

Whilst the contour lines are at 20m intervals, there is not a single cliff or gully (couloir) shown in the entire area! This is indeed a shame as e.g. the Tazaghart NE face above the Lepiney refuge is shown on the map as an uninterrupted steep slope which from purely looking at the map would present no particular problems in descent. See photo on left for the reality! This is repeated all over the map, the S face of Toukal, the N face of Angour.....

So a good map for trekking along clearly defined paths but don't stray off them too far!

UK purchases can be had from Stanfords in Covent Garden, London or on-line at this link. RRP £11.95

Mgoun - THE mountain of mountains!

2008-03-12T16:36:00.007Z

Jebel Toubkal, the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains is sometimes called the "mountain of mountains" in the Berber language on some local maps.

Having been in the general Mgoun / Ait Bougammez region for the past week and having summitted Mgoun, which at 4068m is the 4th highest peak in the High Atlas, we can testify that this mountain is a far more challenging objective than Toubkal! We knew this anyway as we have climbed Mgoun in winter a number of times before, but each time we seem to climb it we are reminded of the seriousness of the place!

Consider this for winter ascents:-

2 day walk in or a long 10 hour day including the crossing of a 3400m pass
Zero rescue facilities / provision
Zero GSM phone cover from the Tarkeddit refuge
Very few other climbers (if at all) around to facilitate a rescue
Summit day involves 4 hours (at best) over 4000m altitude and along a narrow exposed ridge with no escape routes
Snow conditions much more serious than the Toubkal region

Still interested?!

Well to inspire you here are some photos:-

Weather in the Moroccan High Atlas Mountains

2008-02-18T13:07:00.003Z

At last after some 6 weeks we are again seeing some rain (snow in the mountains!) fall with more forecast for this week.
Last week the snowline was around 2800m / 3000m and much higher on south facing slopes. Indeed it's not a great season for ski-touring in the Toubkal region at the moment with some slopes clear of snow altogether.
Hopefully however this current rain / snow will bring these slopes into action again!

Gullies though are in quite good condition generally and some good ice remains high up.

Weather links can be had at:-
http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/world/west_europe/
http://www.marocmeteo.ma/meteo/bulletin.asp
http://www.meteofrance.com/FR/voyage/prevPays.jsp?LIEUID=MAGHREB

What altitude are the Toubkal refuges?

2008-02-05T14:36:00.000Z

Despite numerous attempts and many configurations, I have never managed to achieve a "true" reading of 3200m or thereabouts for the CAF Neltner refuge or the new Mouflon refuge.

Imlil is at 1740m. Resetting the altimeter leaving Imlil, my altimeter always shows 3150m give or take 10 metres on my arrival at the Toubkal refuges. (the CAF Neltner one is supposed to be 3207m as per the map).

The other day I left the altimeter reading at 3150m and on arrival at the summit of Toubkal, the altimeter read 4165m - pretty close to the actual summit height of 4167m!
Reversing the move, on arrival from the summit I found the altimeter reading 3155m....

Maybe others have had this experience as well?

Update on January 4 snowstorm on Toubkal

2008-01-25T10:35:00.000Z

January 4th last saw a quick moving depression track across the High Atlas mountains and particularly the Toubkal massif, resulting in a big dump of snow that day.
On our blog of the 7th January last when we wrote about this we incorrectly stated that this weather deterred any descent from the Toubkal refuge.

We've just received an email from Mikhail in Russia:
"Small remark to your post. We (6 Russians) were on refugee on January, 4. And we descended to Imlil on that day. It took us more than 6 hours."

No wonder it's Russians that are all set to summit the last Nepal Himalaya 8000er unclimbed in winter - possibly this very weekend! Superbly strong mountaineers and used to operating in terrible weather!
In a SMS to RussianClimb, Denis Urubko says he's shaved and changed into a clean outfit. For more info on this Makalu bid, see the latest post on MountEverest.Net

An assessment of the 2 Toubkal refuges

2008-01-18T14:54:00.004Z

We'll be honest to the point of being sued - mind you what's true can't be libellous - can it?! But first some history for you which we've written on in previous blogs.

A small group of French alpinists formed the Moroccan High Atlas section of the Club Alpine Francais in 1922 and shortly afterwards, established that Toubkal was the highest peak in the range. Led by French Lieutenant Marquis de Segonzac, a small group climbed the peak in 1923 claiming the first ascent. The first British man to climb the mountain was Bentley Beetham in 1926, two years after his return from the famous “Mallory & Irvine” expedition to Everest (see previous blog for more on this).

Increasing activity in the Toubkal region of the High Atlas eventually led to the construction in 1938 of a 29 bed solid stone refuge at the foot of Toubkal. It was named after the French geologist Louis Neltner.

There the refuge stayed until it was completely rebuilt (and renamed!) in the late 90's. Increasing use of the valley with trekking agencies and the like saw a local entrepreneur build a new one literally next door to the CAF one and it was eventually opened on the 7th June 2007.

Now with both refuges open it is time to look at the pros and cons of each one!

The new refuge (called the Moufflon) is built with a huge open seating area and internal balcony area leading onto the bedrooms. There is no ceiling for this part and the one open fire in the corner of seating area gives little or no benefit to the general warmth of the rest of the building. On top of this the draught in the chimney is not great and unless there is a reasonable wind outside the tendency is for the smoke to come back down into the sitting area.
The plus side of this refuge is that the bedrooms are clean and newly painted. The mattresses are new and in good condition and do not feel damp. There is an abundance of showers and toilets on both floors. The shop for people staying in the refuge (or camping outside) is incredibly well stocked.

It is the intention of the owner to embark on renovations internally and put a false ceiling in and also internal partition walls to make the seating area cosy - but this won't start until the summer.

Now onto the CAF refuge!
It has a warm cosy(ish!) sitting lounge. That's the (only) strong point!

We have written in previous blogs about the few toilets in the CAF Toubkal refuge and general creature comforts! What particularly struck us recently whilst staying there was the terrible state of the bedrooms. We have always known them to be damp with blackened ceilings but they have just got worse and worse. So much so that the mattresses on the top level of the bunks are damp (or worse!) from drops of condensation and damp coming off the ceiling above. The lower level are shielded obviously from this damp coming off the ceilings but the general feel of the bedrooms is not great to say the least!

A spokesman from one leading UK trekking agency has written:"
Please remember this is still a third world country and standards are not anywhere near the Europe mountain huts and to be honest,from my personal point of view, I would hope it stays like that for a long time, its part of the charm of the place... Things like the conditions of the Neltner are similar to the fact that the locals still live in mud huts in several of the local villages"

Now all that may be, but the reality is that the CAF refuge (never mind the UK agency) charges good money to stay in the place. Customers should surely expect better when paying to stay there.
This is our main gripe with the place really - there has been little or no investment put in since the refuge was rebuilt. The management (both at guardian level and at CAF level) is obviously not customer focused but really more interested in the revenue it generates.

Photos of the state of the refuge have been sent to CAF Maroc but so far no comment has been made by them.....

Sir Edmund Hillary, Everest, Bentley Beetham & Toubkal

2008-01-11T14:02:00.000Z

Ever play word association games? Well here's one for the books!
Sir Edmund Hillary - Everest - Bentley Beetham - Toubkal

Everest legend, Sir Edmund Hillary has died at the age of 88. Sir Edmund along with Tenzing Sherpa, were the first confirmed ascentionists of Everest. I say "confirmed" because as everyone knows the "Mallory & Irvine" 1924 expedition on Everest's north side is still discussed with vigour with protagonists on both sides upholding their opinion as to whether the summit was climbed back in 1924.

One of the expedition members of that 1924 trip was a gentleman by the name of Bentley Beetham. His claim to fame (apart from being on that famous Everest trip of course!)? - well he made the first British ascent of Toubkal back in 1926 (Toubkal was first climbed in 1923 by a party including the Marquis de Segonzac).

Following Everest, Beetham continued to climb in the Tirol and the Moroccan High Atlas, but never regained his health after a serious fall while climbing in Britain. He died in 1963.

Spot the shrine!

2008-01-08T17:19:00.000Z

The white boulder marking the marabout shrine of Sidi Chamarouch en route from Imlil to Toubkal is well and truly disguised by the snowfall last Friday (4th Jan '08).

The shrine at approx 2350m altitude, is well known to all those who trek up the main route to the mountain refuges at the foot of Jebl Toubkal 4167m. It is strictly forbidden to non-Muslims. In fact even the bridge leading over to the shrine is only open to Muslim pilgrims.

Whitewashed, domed shrines dot the landscape of much of rural North Africa. Dead saints abound in Morocco, particularly Berber saints connected with local communities. They are believed to possess great power and various miracles are attributed to them. It is a common sight to see Muslim pilgrims ride up on mules from Imlil to Chamarouch in the out of winter season.

The roots of this tradition can be traced back to ancient times when the Berbers believed in polytheistic religions.

Snow storm and sunshine on Toubkal!

2008-01-07T09:05:00.000Z

Friday 4th January saw a quick moving depression track across the High Atlas mountains and particularly the Toubkal massif. The net result of this was to deter any descent from the Toubkal refuges down the valley!
An attempt was made by one of the NomadicMorocco / ToubkalMountainGuides groups and a KE Adventure Travel group, but after only making about 1km progress in an hour and with visibility down to a couple of metres in horrendous blizzard conditions, the wise decision was made to retreat.

This photo was taken from the doorway of the CAF Neltner refuge showing someone making a fast retreat back inside!

Saturday 5th, saw a beautiful day with sun and although there was deep snow all the way down to Imlil, it was a heck of a lot easier to descend than the day before!

Those familiar with the area will recognise the river basin at Aremd - this time totally covered with snow. Aremd is at around 1900m which means a lot of snow to get through to make it up to the Toubkal refuges at 3200m...

More photos of the day to follow....

Snow at 2800m

2007-12-18T12:37:00.000Z

The snowfall a couple of weeks back has stabilised at around 2800m now in the Mizane valley of the High Atlas mountains around Toubkal.
Off the main tracks it is still very soft powder making for hard going off-route. Some more snow however is forecast over the next few days and weekend of 22nd December.

Lammergeier is protected

2007-12-17T11:57:00.000Z

A new sign has recently been erected on the main "drag" from Imlil to CAF Neltner (Toubkal). Well actually plenty of signs have been erected over the past 6 months or so, all of them showing that Toubkal is indeed within a national park in the High Atlas mountains!
However the one new sign I'm referring to is about the protected status of the Lammergeier or Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus). Avid readers of this blog(!) will remember previous blogs about this huge "old world" vulture.

Rare in Europe and even rarer in North Africa - in fact the Moroccan High Atlas Lammergeiers are the last left in this part of the continent.

The conservation programme consists in educating the local Berbers not to poison, shoot or otherwise destroy this bird; monitoring the movements of the local population and supplementing the food supply of bones that the Lammergeier depends on.

Let's hope it works!

Blue skies and snow at 1800m

2007-11-28T18:53:00.000Z

Driving over the Tizi 'n Test yesterday from Taroudant to Imlil at the foot of Toubkal, the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas, the views were stunning.

Taking a break at the cafe just before the tizi on the south side, the views of Jebel Flillis were very clear, revealing some of the biggest cliff faces in the whole of the Atlas range.

Once over the pass at 2100m, the views of the Tagharat plateau along with Toubkal's neighbouring 4000m peaks were again beautiful.

Imlil 1740m, the main village in the deep Mizane valley, was in shade by 3pm and with snow in the carpark of the Hotel Soleil, another cold night was in store....

Some photos of the day appear below.

More snow forecast for the High Atlas mountains

2007-11-23T14:30:00.000Z

More snow is forecast for tonight (Friday 23rd Nov) and tomorrow Saturday in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains. Rain turning to snow from about 2500m altitude on all slope aspects. Wind NW backing W with wind speed 30 km/h and gusty over tops.

Ski-touring in the High Atlas Mountains

2007-11-22T12:03:00.000Z

Dear everyone,
I am a comparatively poor ski mountaineer from the eagle ski club who is interested in skiing some of the main peaks in the Moroccan High Atlas over 7 days early in the new year 2008.
I shall be bringing my touring gear, ice axe, crampons, sleeping bag etc and will be available to leave Marrakesh late on Jan 9 or early jan 10 and am booked to fly back to the UK on Jan 16 at 18.25.
I am an experienced mountaineer and skier of ten years or so and have been on many big mountains in the greater ranges.

best wishes

Richard Cowper
0044 7767 301222

The Marines are calling!

2007-11-15T22:32:00.000Z

Well it seems no sooner do we write a blog about climbing Toubkal (the highest peak in the Moroccan Atlas Mountains) in a few days, than we get emails flying in telling us about articles "out there" both on Wikipedia, AT Magazine on-line et al, all about people who have been up there and back in 2 days!

So what's all this prove?! Altitude rules go out the window. People have less respect for mountains. Peak baggers and the like. It's a free world and everyone has the right to climb a mountain as they wish.

We can't disagree on any of this. However everything's fine until there is an accident then the usual enquiries and inquests begin. As professional mountain guides, we cannot condone climbing Toubkal in 2 days but we certainly acknowledge people do it!

Our primary concerns are a meaningful summit experience under an umbrella of safety and appreciation for the culture and environment which is missed in 2, even 3 days.

All to often from Everest to Toubkal, it seems it's the destination (i.e. the summit) that counts, not the path.
As a colleague wrote recently: "there is a tendency within our achievement orientated society to regard all experiences as boxes to be ticked and things to be acquired. Mountains have not escaped this prevailing attitude"....

Meanwhile a spokeman for the DoD refused to confirm or deny that speed ascents of Toubkal would be taken into account when applying for a position as officer in the marines.....

Don't believe everything you read!

2007-11-13T11:16:00.000Z

As with most airlines, BA's inflight magazine has a number of articles on destinations that they fly to and what you can do once you arrive in your chosen city.

The most recent edition of British Airway's magazine (Nov 2007) has a small article about Mount Toubkal the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains. The article goes on to suggest that it is possible to fly in from Heathrow late on a Friday afternoon. From there get transport up to the kasbah in Imlil for around 9pm and have a late dinner. No quibbles there.

However the next couple of days that BA suggests are less quibble-free! Saturday morning after a late breakfast, one can take the day's exertion which "comprises a gentle ascent" to the Neltner refuge at 3207m (the kasbah is at 1800m). Sunday then consists of getting to the summit by 09.00 in the morning (ouch!) and - wait for it - getting down all the way back to the kasbah for late lunch! Then Marrakech later on for the last flight back to London.

Whilst all may be just about possible if you are training for the marines or similar, for most ordinary mortals like ourselves it is silly to be on such a tight schedule.

It is reprehensible for BA to suggest this. Altitude acclimitisation for one. Zero integration with the Berber culture. Give yourselves another couple of days at least to savour the scenery, culture and environment you are in. Before we know it, Toubkal will be on a stag party's to do list.....

Winter is returning to the High Atlas

2007-10-21T13:31:00.000Z

Well NomadicBloggerites - here we go again! The first snows on Mount Toubkal 4167m (the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains) have arrived - earlier than last year also!
This photo was taken last Wednesday (17th Oct). Brrr - does it look cold? Well it wasn't tooooo bad but unfortunately there were no wonderful views of Ouanoukrim to linger around for.

For more on ToubkalMountainGuides and their winter itinerary, just follow this link.

Walnut harvest coming to a close

2007-10-10T15:00:00.000Z

Throughout September, most Berber villages in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains have been involved in the walnut harvest. These villages rely on the annual harvest of walnuts for cash – something often in short supply in village life! There are exceptions to this of course – Imlil at the foot of Toubkal has in addition to walnuts, apple, almond and cherry harvests and the Ait Bougammez valley near Mgoun has apples but in the main, walnuts are the main cash crop for Berber mountain villages. The unfortunate reality is that these two villages / valley areas also benefit hugely from tourism income, often giving the wrong impression to visiting trekkers and climbers that Berber villages are relatively well off – but I digress…..

There is always a big difference between the retail price and the price paid to the producer for most agricultural produce – and the walnut is no exception. Producers from developing countries often lay prey to big multi-nationals which is where the likes of Fairtrade have come into their own. Producers receive a minimum price that covers the cost of sustainable production and an extra premium that is invested in social or economic development projects. We are all familiar with Fairtrade coffee, chocolate, cocoa, cotton products and the like. However whilst there is a large array of products falling within the Fairtrade ambit, the walnut for whatever reason is not included. (I am open to correction on this but this is the position as far as I am aware).

Walnuts are one of the best plant sources of protein. They are also rich in fibre, B vitamins, magnesium, and antioxidants such as Vitamin E. The 2006 BBC report about the health benefits from eating walnuts lead to a reported 80% increase in demand at Waitrose.

The producer in the Berber villages sells walnut by the 1000 (not by weight). 1000 walnuts in their shells weigh approx 7.5kg. The going price at the moment for 1000 nuts is between 150 – 200dh. This equates to around 25dh per kilo.

Once they are shelled and brought down to the local town souk (market), the price has more than doubled to 55dh for a kilo of walnut halves.

However this is good value compared to some UK health-food websites where the retail price averages out at 240dh (£14.95) for a kilo of shelled walnut halves.

The margin therefore between the price paid to the Moroccan Berber producer and the price you pay in the UK is around 215dh per kilo – in other words over £13 difference for every kilo!

More on this later, but in the meantime must get cracking on all these walnuts we’ve been given by our Berber friends…..