Route of the Week (6) Anrhemer 3892m

While there are many climbing routes on this peak, most on the east face and north-east arete are difficult to access. The ascent of the peak via Tizi Tacheddirt (3172m) is a practical option, and one that opens up the possibility of a long ridge traverse (Anrhemer–Toubkal traverse).


Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons.
Time 9–10hrs (by returning the same way)
1580m, F
Tacheddirt refuge (2314m)

With Tacheddirt now accessible from Imlil by car on metalled road (outside winter), this opens up the area much more. However you choose to access it, this route can either be done in a day or broken into two days by a draughty bivvy on Tizi Tacheddirt followed by an ascent to the peak and then a descent back to Tacheddirt village. Note that there are no easy water sources on Tizi Tacheddirt if intending to bivvy there outside winter.

From Tacheddirt, follow the well-defined trail ENE to Tizi Tacheddirt (3172m, 2hrs 30mins). Take the prominent spur running up and due S without difficulty to the obvious saddle on the W ridge running down from Anrhemer. This is Tizi n-Tigourzatine (3680m, 1hr 30mins from Tizi Tacheddirt).

Follow this ridge to the W summit (3885m), with stupendous vistas of the Toubkal massif SW. From the W summit, descend to a gap which is at the top of a gully on the N face (possible route of ascent). From the gap, turn a small rock pinnacle on the N side, followed by a direct ascent up the final jagged crest to the main E summit (2hrs 30mins–3hrs from Tizi Tacheddirt; 5hrs–5hrs 30mins from Tacheddirt village).

Descend the same way, unless linking in with a traverse to Bou Iguenouane.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.