Review of our book

Route of the Week (5) Ras & Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim 4083m/4088m East ridge route

These are the second and third highest peaks in the High Atlas, and are commonly climbed by commercial groups. Ras (third highest) is the more visible one, easily seen at the head of the valley when approaching the Toubkal refuges. Its north-east face is split by a central couloir, while its south side drops to a gentle col and subsequently rises to Timesguida (= mosque), which is 5m higher.


Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons.
Time 6hrs (by returning the same way)
900m, F (winter)
Start Toubkal refuges (3200m)

From the refuge, head due S to the prominent col at the head of the valley, Tizi n-Ouagane (3730m). Keep initially W (true left) of the river, passing a band of yellowy cliffs and Amrharas n-Iglioua on your right before a flattening and the junction with the track leading SE to Tizi Ouanoums (30–45mins).

Pass through a narrow defile and potential avalanche trap from the W-facing slopes above for 30m before the final slopes rise to the pass (2hr–2hrs 30mins). Beware of cornice build-up, usually on the S-facing side.

The E ridge rises directly from the Tizi, passing the prominent finger of rock on the N side. Above, some easy but slightly exposed scrambling exits right before a small arete is crossed. Descending in winter, this offers a straightforward easy angled gully to descend NE. Beware of this arete in late spring, when warm conditions in Imlil may have dissuaded you from taking an axe, which you may regret.

Exiting off the arete, take a direct line up the 30° snow face and then veer right to a levelling off in slope angle. Take a note of this point if you have a GPS, as finding the top of the ridge if descending in cloud can be difficult – but essential for a safe line down.

Handrail the northern edge to the visible fore-summit before crossing the arete at the top of the central couloir (axe at the ready) and scramble to the small summit of Ras, with magnificent views (3hrs–3hrs 30mins).

The summit of the slightly higher Timesguida is 20mins away to the S. When returning, you can take a direct line to the top of the E ridge. In good visibility aim for the summit of Toubkal to guide you, or read your GPS reference in bad visibility. Do not be tempted to drop off this descending traverse too soon, as you will find yourself in steep terrain and on the wrong (S) side of the Tizi n-Ouagane watershed.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Route of the Week (4) Lepiney to Toubkal refuge traverse via the Clochetons Breche

While this is a longer route than that via Tadat (Route 10), it gives fine views and an excellent vantage point of many route possibilities in the immediate area. The descent, however, can be subject to big avalanches after heavy snowfalls, particularly wet snowfalls late in the season. Do not attempt this route if there has been recent snow or avalanche history.


Map 1:50,000 Toubkal, Orientazion
Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons. Snowshoes can be useful in parts, depending on the snow conditions. Rope optional.
Time 5-6hours
940m, PD/PD+
Start Lepiney refuge (3000m)

From the Lepiney refuge, once above the waterfall, head S, keeping to the valley floor, passing the nevé permanent cone at the base of the Couloir de Neige on your right. The valley turns left and narrows, beyond which a 30m iced (in winter) section with some old in-situ protection needs to be climbed. (In descent, a rope can be useful.)

Once above this pitch, the Arhzane cwm opens up, with some great views of the Clochetons directly ahead, with the valley gradually veering right (S) to Tizi Melloul. Keeping to the valley floor initially before gaining height left, approach the base of the W face of Afella, before a diagonal left-traversing couloir takes you to the southernmost breche of the Clochetons (4hrs–4hrs 30mins).

From here a direct descent down the 30° slope of Irhzer Ikhelloun leads you directly to the Toubkal refuges more than 700m below.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

New snow

A fair bit of snow has fallen over the past number of days in the Moroccan High Atlas down to around 1800m on south facing slopes. This will rise as temperatures increase but the snowline will remain at or around 2350m.

Beware of possible big slides with this new snow unable to bond well with the base layer.

As usual, where the slope is in question, dig a snow profile first.

Travel safe.

Route of the Week (3) Jbel Tinergwet 3551m by the SW ridge

The most westerly 3000m high peak in the High Atlas range, it appears as an attractive pyramid peak from all perspectives. First seen to the south-east when travelling from Marrakech towards Agadir, it is particularly fine when its northern slopes are snow covered. From Taroudant, its subsidiary peak to the south-west and the main summit appear as a rocky twin-fanged peak, with Jbel Awlim (3482m) further to the right (north-east).

Out of winter season, it provides some fine lonely scrambling (apart from seeing a shepherd or two) and a satisfying mountain expedition. In winter, narrow ridges in some parts provide easy mountaineering, with some route finding and stunning views to the east and the Anti-Atlas on the southern horizon.

Two ridges are described below, and if taken together they provide a very enjoyable three-day circuit from Islane.

Map 1:50,000 series, Souq Sebt-Talmakant, Feuille NH-29-XVI-3c
Equipment Camping/bivvying for at least 1 night on the mountain, possibly up to 3 depending on route chosen. In winter, axe and crampons.
Time 2 days
990m, PD
Start Islane (1600)

Aim for the prominent cream-coloured band of rock, below the skyline ridge, visible from Islane. Leave the hamlet of Takoucht (1600m) by following the irrigation channel NNW past some houses on the right to the stream bed. Gain height by following this stream along a well-defined trail through walnut groves and past small waterfalls. Looking back, there are far-reaching views of the Souss plains below and the Anti-Atlas in the background. Reach the end of the walnut trees at 2075m, where the open forest (tagant) becomes visible up and ahead (1hr 30mins). Refill with water here.

Keeping to the right of a small outcrop, continue NNW to the beginning of the open forest, where a faint track trends left (NW then WNW), with zigzags upwards past small azibs heading for the western end of the cream band of rock.

Exit out of the forest, with first views of the summit of Tinergwet to the NE, and head WNW by following a natural line through the cream rock band before heading W into the broad Tizi Ifguig (2776m, N30 46.538 W008 53.757, 5hrs (alternative route), 4hrs (main route); also known locally as Tizi Taguergoust ‘between four’ – referring to one water source and a crossroads of four tracks). Camp. The water source is 100m away on the NW side of the pass.

From Tizi Ifguig, gain the high ground immediately to the NE (2974m). Keep NE on this ridge line passing any difficulties initially to the left (N) before gaining Tizi Moussa (2925m (local name – not marked on map), N30 47.920 W008 51.772),where the ridge line runs more W–E (3hrs).

This pass is the main escape and descent route to Islane, 3hrs due S and 1400m below. The pass also provides a suitable camp/bivvy site if a direct ascent from Islane is made instead of going via Tizi Ifguig. However, there is no water source, so snowmelt is required in winter.

From this pass, keep on the ridge line E before turning NE and passing any difficulties to the N. A shallow col gives way to the straightforward final summit ridge (3551m, N30 48.951 W008 49.781, 4–5hrs, 1hr 30mins from Tizi Moussa).

Unless continuing on to Mgount (W), return the same way to at least Tizi Moussa. The ground to the S may look attractive in places for a descent but this temptation should be resisted, as there is a lot of steep broken ground out of view.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.

Current snow conditions

My friends and I will come to High Atlas for ski touring in two weeks. Can you give us some information about the current conditions? How much snow (centimeter) is there at the moment at Toubkal Hut? According to the weather forecast there should be some snow fall at the moment and the next days, is that right?
Thanks a lot for your answers.
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Snow cover has been thin on the ground this season and especially for skiing - e.g the often favoured run from the Toubkal refuge down to Sidi Chamarouch has not been possible. As you say there is more snow forecast this week but this doesn't seem that it will do much more than cover some holes made by walkers!

Above the refuge there is certainly skiable terrain on N and NE facing slopes - but not as great as previous years.

NNW ridge of Akioud 4030m

I'm planning to climb in High Atlas by the end of April. I have got some winter experience from Scotland and I have finished basic winter mountaineering course recently. Do you think that soloing Akioud as described in your guide (PD+) will be ok?
I'd like to climb all the 4000-ers in the area but i know that Moroccan guides are not the climbers really. I'd be grateful if you could give me your opinion on that.
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The ability to climb a PD+ grade in winter depends on your competence as a mountaineer and that is something that you alone know. Also the wisdom of solo climbing any route in this area (that does not have a search and rescue facility) apart from possibly the normal south cwm route of Toubkal needs to be questioned. This route on Akioud is not nearly as frequently climbed by other parties as e.g. Toubkal or Ouanoukrim and the risk of an injury and not being "discovered" until the next day (or more) is a real possibility.


Although the route is graded "only" PD+, there is a real risk of a slide on the NW face when descending and this has potentially serious consequences (this is referred to in the route description in the book).

Route of the Week (2) Ighil Mgoun 4068m & Mgoun West 3978m

Ighil Mgoun is the only 4000m peak outside the Toubkal region, and is a much more remote and, in winter, serious proposition. The realities of self-rescue must always be borne in mind. Once on the ridge between Mgoun West and Mgoun itself, the only escape routes are to the south, which is the opposite direction from the refuge.


Even in summer this area can create its own weather patterns, with electrical storms coming in most afternoons, so early starts from the refuge are recommended.

Map 1:100,000 Mgoun Massif, West Col
Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons; snowshoes are also very useful.
Time 2-3 days
1200+, F-
Start Tarkeddit refuge (2900m)

It is possible to continue on the ridge past Mgoun for many more kilometres, with terrain similar to the SW ridge. Realistically there is only one descent route to the N, 2km past the summit at Pt 3993m. The descent off this spur leads to the Oulilimt valley. Head W from here up to the Oumsoud pass and from there follow the trail back to the Azib Ikkis via the rocky SW spur of Igoudamen.

If you decide not to drop off at Pt 3993m, then a stupendous, technically easy ridge walk beckons. Allow for 2 nights bivvying in remote country before a return to the Bougammez valley via Tizi Ayt Imi (2905m).

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.