Route of the Week (4) Lepiney to Toubkal refuge traverse via the Clochetons Breche

While this is a longer route than that via Tadat (Route 10), it gives fine views and an excellent vantage point of many route possibilities in the immediate area. The descent, however, can be subject to big avalanches after heavy snowfalls, particularly wet snowfalls late in the season. Do not attempt this route if there has been recent snow or avalanche history.


Map 1:50,000 Toubkal, Orientazion
Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons. Snowshoes can be useful in parts, depending on the snow conditions. Rope optional.
Time 5-6hours
940m, PD/PD+
Start Lepiney refuge (3000m)

From the Lepiney refuge, once above the waterfall, head S, keeping to the valley floor, passing the nevé permanent cone at the base of the Couloir de Neige on your right. The valley turns left and narrows, beyond which a 30m iced (in winter) section with some old in-situ protection needs to be climbed. (In descent, a rope can be useful.)

Once above this pitch, the Arhzane cwm opens up, with some great views of the Clochetons directly ahead, with the valley gradually veering right (S) to Tizi Melloul. Keeping to the valley floor initially before gaining height left, approach the base of the W face of Afella, before a diagonal left-traversing couloir takes you to the southernmost breche of the Clochetons (4hrs–4hrs 30mins).

From here a direct descent down the 30° slope of Irhzer Ikhelloun leads you directly to the Toubkal refuges more than 700m below.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.