Route of the Week (3) Jbel Tinergwet 3551m by the SW ridge

The most westerly 3000m high peak in the High Atlas range, it appears as an attractive pyramid peak from all perspectives. First seen to the south-east when travelling from Marrakech towards Agadir, it is particularly fine when its northern slopes are snow covered. From Taroudant, its subsidiary peak to the south-west and the main summit appear as a rocky twin-fanged peak, with Jbel Awlim (3482m) further to the right (north-east).

Out of winter season, it provides some fine lonely scrambling (apart from seeing a shepherd or two) and a satisfying mountain expedition. In winter, narrow ridges in some parts provide easy mountaineering, with some route finding and stunning views to the east and the Anti-Atlas on the southern horizon.

Two ridges are described below, and if taken together they provide a very enjoyable three-day circuit from Islane.

Map 1:50,000 series, Souq Sebt-Talmakant, Feuille NH-29-XVI-3c
Equipment Camping/bivvying for at least 1 night on the mountain, possibly up to 3 depending on route chosen. In winter, axe and crampons.
Time 2 days
990m, PD
Start Islane (1600)

Aim for the prominent cream-coloured band of rock, below the skyline ridge, visible from Islane. Leave the hamlet of Takoucht (1600m) by following the irrigation channel NNW past some houses on the right to the stream bed. Gain height by following this stream along a well-defined trail through walnut groves and past small waterfalls. Looking back, there are far-reaching views of the Souss plains below and the Anti-Atlas in the background. Reach the end of the walnut trees at 2075m, where the open forest (tagant) becomes visible up and ahead (1hr 30mins). Refill with water here.

Keeping to the right of a small outcrop, continue NNW to the beginning of the open forest, where a faint track trends left (NW then WNW), with zigzags upwards past small azibs heading for the western end of the cream band of rock.

Exit out of the forest, with first views of the summit of Tinergwet to the NE, and head WNW by following a natural line through the cream rock band before heading W into the broad Tizi Ifguig (2776m, N30 46.538 W008 53.757, 5hrs (alternative route), 4hrs (main route); also known locally as Tizi Taguergoust ‘between four’ – referring to one water source and a crossroads of four tracks). Camp. The water source is 100m away on the NW side of the pass.

From Tizi Ifguig, gain the high ground immediately to the NE (2974m). Keep NE on this ridge line passing any difficulties initially to the left (N) before gaining Tizi Moussa (2925m (local name – not marked on map), N30 47.920 W008 51.772),where the ridge line runs more W–E (3hrs).

This pass is the main escape and descent route to Islane, 3hrs due S and 1400m below. The pass also provides a suitable camp/bivvy site if a direct ascent from Islane is made instead of going via Tizi Ifguig. However, there is no water source, so snowmelt is required in winter.

From this pass, keep on the ridge line E before turning NE and passing any difficulties to the N. A shallow col gives way to the straightforward final summit ridge (3551m, N30 48.951 W008 49.781, 4–5hrs, 1hr 30mins from Tizi Moussa).

Unless continuing on to Mgount (W), return the same way to at least Tizi Moussa. The ground to the S may look attractive in places for a descent but this temptation should be resisted, as there is a lot of steep broken ground out of view.

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.