Route of the Week (2) Ighil Mgoun 4068m & Mgoun West 3978m

Ighil Mgoun is the only 4000m peak outside the Toubkal region, and is a much more remote and, in winter, serious proposition. The realities of self-rescue must always be borne in mind. Once on the ridge between Mgoun West and Mgoun itself, the only escape routes are to the south, which is the opposite direction from the refuge.


Even in summer this area can create its own weather patterns, with electrical storms coming in most afternoons, so early starts from the refuge are recommended.

Map 1:100,000 Mgoun Massif, West Col
Equipment In winter, ice-axe and crampons; snowshoes are also very useful.
Time 2-3 days
1200+, F-
Start Tarkeddit refuge (2900m)

It is possible to continue on the ridge past Mgoun for many more kilometres, with terrain similar to the SW ridge. Realistically there is only one descent route to the N, 2km past the summit at Pt 3993m. The descent off this spur leads to the Oulilimt valley. Head W from here up to the Oumsoud pass and from there follow the trail back to the Azib Ikkis via the rocky SW spur of Igoudamen.

If you decide not to drop off at Pt 3993m, then a stupendous, technically easy ridge walk beckons. Allow for 2 nights bivvying in remote country before a return to the Bougammez valley via Tizi Ayt Imi (2905m).

All 50 route and detailed practical information appear in the Cicerone published Mountaineering in the High Atlas. To buy a copy of this book for just GBP 15, follow this link.