Thursday, 30 December 2010

Keep up the good work.....

Hi There.
I have used your site for valuable info now and in the past and wish to thank you for all your efforts.
I am on Toubkal for around a week (for 4th time.ha!) this winter. I'm expecting to set up camp above the refuge huts around the 11th January, and the helmet cam is coming with us so I'll post the info and where to find the vids of the conditions once I reach Imlil or Marrakech!
Its the least I can do for your blog!
Keep up the good work and all the best for the New Year!
Flying in today to Marrakech!
EXCELLENT!
HAPPY NEW YEAR
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Thanks for the kind words S ! Your vids would be ace! Camping sounds a bit expeditionary but at least you'll be away from the noise in the refuges!
Good climbing...

Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Snowline and depth update

hi Guys,

could you guys give an update of this question by Christmas?
Allready snow covering the mountains and passes for the moment?

we arrive in Morocco on 26 of december.

thanks a lot!


So the last few days has seen a fair amount of rain in the valleys of the Moroccan High Atlas which obviously translates into snow higher up! The question is - how high? To be honest it's hard to say right now as it's still raining and the mountains are totally cloud covered - at least from where we are! The freezing level today is down to 2400m today but this is set to rise up to 3800m over the weekend.

Our best guess until we can see the mountains is fresh snow on all slope aspects down to 2350m with this new snow falling onto an existing snowbase from 2750m.

With strong W-WNW winds today (which we can definitely vouch for!) at 22 m/s at 4000m, the main risk is some windslab on E and SE facing slopes above 3400m.

Wind speed conversions:-
for KPH - multiply the m/s figure by 3.6
for MPH - multiply the m/s figure by 2.25

Saturday, 11 December 2010

I don't have much experience of winter walking - can I climb Toubkal?

Ok - well that's not going to be a one-line answer! Here are some thoughts!:

# To state the obvious - this is a 4000m peak so you will feel the altitude if you go too quick. The only safeguard if you can call it that, is that the two Toubkal refuges are around 3200m so you can sleep there without feeling major affects of AMS. Safe absolute minimum times of ascent are 3 days out and back from Marrakech - 4 days better to allow for an acclimatisation peak to be climbed.
# The fitter you are obviously the better and the easier for yourself. If you are not used to 6-7 hour days in the mountains and you are trying to climb Toubkal in 3 days or even less round trip from Marrakech then you will suffer! Be kind to yourself and get some walking in before you embark on this!
# "Winter" is really end of November to mid April +/- 2 weeks both sides. This means that during this time you will either have to carry all your own equipment and food up to the refuge or engage porters as mules will only go as far as the snowline which in mid-winter is down at Sidi Chamharouch and sometimes lower.
# At the refuge you either have to cook your own food or pay someone up at the refuge to this for you (or you can arrange with a local guide in Imlil or professional mountaineering company like ours to sort this out for you in advance). The Mouflon Toubkal refuge can provide food / meals for you if you order in advance.


All of the comments below are based on ascents in Winter!
A. Climbing Toubkal in winter generally requires wearing crampons and using a walking ice-axe. However the ascent (by either the south or north cwm routes -see point 8 below) is not technical and so you do not necessarily need prior experience using an axe or crampons if you are going with a reputable / qualified mountain guide. (We would not recommend you climbing Toubkal in winter without a winter experienced guide if you do not have prior winter walking / climbing experience).
B. The normal un-acclimatised but reasonably mountain fit individual will take around 6 hours walking from Imlil (1750m) to the refuges (around 3200m). The return leg down will take around 4 hours. These times depend on the snowline and depth of untracked snow. I remember early January '08 when it was an epic to descend due to a huge volume of new snow - right down to Imlil in fact. Also if there is any ice en-route it can make for some delicate foot placements.
C. There is 1 frequented and 1 far less frequented route from the refuges. The standard frequented South Cwm route (prominent right-hand valley in photo) and the slightly longer, steeper & much less frequented North Cwm route (prominent left-hand valley in photo). Approx 90% or more ascents are made by South Cwm route. I have lost count of the number of days I have done the North Cwm route with no other parties present yet on arriving at the summit it could be like any popular Alpine summit in terms of numbers! Local "guides" contracted in Imlil rarely if ever take the North Cwm route as it is longer, steeper and more committing in winter (that said it is still "only" Alpine grade F+ / PD-). The same can be said of virtually all the other (UK) guiding companies as they generally contract Moroccan guides to lead the trip who prefer the ease and less committing nature of the South Cwm route.
D. In terms of times of ascent/descent (round trip out and back from the refuges) for the South Cwm, it is anywhere 6-8 hours depending on fitness, peoples abilities on snow and the quality / depth of (un)tracked snow.North Cwm route up and South Cwm route down (i.e. a traverse of the peak) is usually anywhere 7-9 hours.
E. Both routes have a steep start from the refuge - the North Cwm route steepest of all. The North Cwm route initially involves a traverse across 35 degree slopes and then straight up a steep slope before gaining the relative flatness of the actual cwm. Have your axe at the ready doing this traverse to arrest any slide - although the run-out is generally not serious it can feel like a long way down to the river bed!Both routes exit onto the relevant col (South Cwm - South Col; North Cwm - North Col) before the climber is required to ascend the relevant ridge to the summit.
The North Ridge is steeper and requires some delightful easy scrambling and a true feeling of an Alpine ridge. It is generally objective free of danger and other than coping with a strong side wind it is generally a safe line.
The South Ridge can be taken direct or avoided by traversing below (western side). Be aware however that this traverse takes the climber above a cliff band - to slide here would not be good! Again depending on the snow conditions, it is often airier but safer to stay on the ridgeline proper rather than do the traverse.
F. As with all winter conditions, you should have axe / crampons (and know how to use them! - but see point A above), winter boots, a rucsac with the usual safety bits and pieces (down jacket / spare food / water / anorak etc) and be mountain aware! Turn back if in doubt about things, your breathing, the weather etc......

Friday, 10 December 2010

Can we visit you guys in Morocco?

It's fantastic that you guys put up a FAQ on your weblog! Can we visit you guys in Morocco? Do you have a gite? A mountain shop?
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Thanks for the compliments! Although we're based in Morocco on the sunny south side of the mountains(!), we don't (as yet) have a public office - preferring to keep our costs down and run an internet based business from an office in our house. Apart from running commercial guided trips, we have just finished our first book on the region which will hopefully answer a lot of the questions people have when they want to do their own trip.

Whilst there are many gites in the mountains (great, good and not great!) there isn't a single mountaineering equipment shop in the country. General low quality trekky type stuff yes but no specialist mountaineering shop. The reason? - one of high import duties mainly, although with recent trade agreements between Morocco and the EU & USA this may change - slowly! As they say here in Berber "little by little"!

As there's no mountain rescue in Morocco, do I really need insurance?

Ok - well first of all, it's not strictly true that there is zero mountain rescue in the Moroccan High Atlas. There is a private helicopter service based out of Marrakech which can fly to the Toubkal mountain refuges and pick up a casualty from there. That's about it though - a casualty injured high up on the hill will have to be moved to the refuges to stand any chance of an air-lift out.

So you would need insurance for the services of the civilian chopper from the Toubkal refuges - unless your credit card can extend to it! In addition, even though there are no formal rescue services in the entire range, there will be costs associated with your evacuation (even if it's just paying the diesel costs of the 4x4). On top of that, the hospital / private clinic will be reluctant to let you leave without being paid! Lastly if real tragedy strikes and you need an air ambulance back home to a European hospital, your credit card providers may balk at this "purchase"!

So the short answer is "yes" - never leave for the mountains (be it here here or the Alps) without first having arranged medical / rescue / repatriation insurance cover.

Thursday, 9 December 2010

A question about fuel for our mountain stove


A question about fuel for our mountain stove: We need to find "white gas" = "coleman fuel" = "Essence filtree" = "Blanche sans plomb" for our primus camping mountain stove. We need to fill the red bottle in this picture http://store.mpgear.com/images/products/display/Primus_OmniFuelOpen.jpg Where can I find this in Inezgane? In Agadir? In Marrakesh? In Ouarzazate? (we are going to spend a night in Inezgane, because we arrive in Agadir Airport in the evening)
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Multi-fuel stoves are best for self-supported trips as it is impossible to buy MSR (or similar) re-sealable butane/propane mixed gas cannisters in Morocco. However we have never been able to source white gas either! So we use MSR Whisperlite's which can take unleaded petrol. If anyone out there has been able to source white gas in Morocco - tell us!

What is the current snowline altitude and depth?

South facing slopes 3250m. North Facing 2850m. Depth at 3500m approx 20cm on sheltered aspects.

Your questions on the Moroccan High Atlas mountains answered here!

We receive a number of questions from people wanting to do their "own thing" in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains. In the past we've answered their queries when we're less busy - and othertimes not. As a support to our forthcoming book, the first English language guidebook of its type, we've decided to answer the question type emails we (will) receive through our blog so that everyone can benefit from the answer.

All these answers will be under the FAQ's label so they are grouped together for ease of use.

So keep an eye on this link when planning your next trip to Toubkal, Mgoun, Tinergwet, Angour or any other prominent peak in the High Atlas!