Mgoun - THE mountain of mountains!
Jebel Toubkal, the highest peak in the Moroccan High Atlas mountains is sometimes called the "mountain of mountains" in the Berber language on some local maps.
Having been in the general Mgoun / Ait Bougammez region for the past week and having summitted Mgoun, which at 4068m is the 4th highest peak in the High Atlas, we can testify that this mountain is a far more challenging objective than Toubkal! We knew this anyway as we have climbed Mgoun in winter a number of times before, but each time we seem to climb it we are reminded of the seriousness of the place!
Consider this for winter ascents:-
- 2 day walk in or a long 10 hour day including the crossing of a 3400m pass
- Zero rescue facilities / provision
- Zero GSM phone cover from the Tarkeddit refuge
- Very few other climbers (if at all) around to facilitate a rescue
- Summit day involves 4 hours (at best) over 4000m altitude and along a narrow exposed ridge with no escape routes
- Snow conditions much more serious than the Toubkal region
Well to inspire you here are some photos:-
